Russian River Valley Neighborhoods: No SUBstitutions

Got Dirt? 

Four Wine Guys, a Critic, and a Dog Walk into a Bar....

This past Saturday I attended a seminar on Russian River Valley Neighborhoods to learn about the characteristics and defining qualities of the wine region in which I live. The seminar was presented by the Russian River Valley Winegrowers Association as part of Pinot Classic weekend.

The Neighborhoods seminar took attendees on a guided tour through the Russian River Valley “sub” region vineyards of Middle Reach, Laguna Ridge and Green Valley via our olfactory senses and palates. The Green Valley appellation is a big one so it makes sense it might be a prime candidate for some slice and dice, but creating new AVA’s can be quite a political and thorny issue for everyone involved. And apparently there is no such thing as a “sub” appellation, so the areas discussed were called neighborhoods, which is the very clunky and clandestine way to say “sub” AVA. 

"It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood." -- Mr. Rogers

Mike Sullivan of Benovia moderated the panel with Mark McWilliams of Arista representing Middle Reach; Michael Browne of Kosta Brown representing Green Valley, and Rod Berglund of Joseph Swan representing Laguna Ridge.

Also on the panel, Steve Heimoff, who penned a definitive book on the region: A Wine Journey along the Russian River; and although the handout said he was from Wine Enthusiast, Heimoff is currently working for Kendall-Jackson. The final member of the panel was Heimoff’s little dog Gus. Gus did not say much, he was certainly cute, but looked to me like his name should be Schnapps.

Dirt and Fog

As with any wine region weather is a crucial element and fog in particular is a big deal for Pinot. I can vouch for the distinct fog patterns that are unique to the RRV area and how it changes with the seasons. I marvel at how clearly defined the band of fog is that enters from Petaluma Gap to the south of the Sebastopol Hills vs. the slow hang and creep of the Middle Reach fog banks as compared to the “fill and drain” of the fog in the Laguna Ridge basin.

Despite varying winemaking protocols terroir trumps all and our goal was to see if we could detect the varying degrees of silt, sand, and clay soil characteristics of each neighborhood in the wines. The Russian River Valley Winegrowers are creating a searchable knowledgebase of the region to establish a baseline and common language to track and determine patterns of the neighborhoods and define what characteristics of terroir are expressed in a given region.

Green Valley – Higher acid and bright red fruit, soils defined by silt and loam.
Middle Reach – Rich, powerful, fruit driven, deepest soils.
Laguna Ridge -- Earth and spice, mix of silt, sand, and some clay.

“Great wine drinks great at all ages.”– Mark McWilliams

Taste Blind Smell the Love

We were presented with nine Pinots to blind taste-- three each from vineyards in Green Valley, Middle Reach and Laguna Ridge. There were also jars of Franciscan, Alluvial, and Goldridge soils. The Alluvial and Goldridge smelled amazing, both emitting deep dark and complex aromas, but my jar of Fransican had barely any scent at all.

The Alluvial soil smelled so good, I suggested to Virginie Boone, seated next to me, that we add some water to the sample jar and do mud pack facials while we tasted through the rest of the wine samples. She wisely declined.

Tasting blind really helped me to focus in on the characteristics of each neighborhood rather than the style of the producer. I was able to guess a few of the wines, such as Kosta Browne and Arista, but I based those assumptions mainly on the vineyard name and location, which were big giveaways.

I also correctly guessed the Laguna Ridge wine from Goldridge soil. The moment I smelled the wine I had a hunch it was Dehlinger. A taste confirmed it in my mind. It was revealed at the end of the session to indeed be Dehlinger. {This rarely happens to me, so chalk one up for my blind tasting abilities!} No other Pinot I’ve ever had tastes or smells or drinks quite like Dehlinger.

Here are a few of the quick notes and impressions I jotted down for each wine:

Middle Reach Vineyards (all 2012)
Little Hill/Rochioli: Distinctive nose of chalk, rich earth and powdery rose with bright fruits and good acidity.
Harper’s Rest/Arista: Deep rich flavor and brambly notes with firm tannins.
Allen Vineyard/Williams Selyem: Subtle, elusive nose, with chalky, dusty earth and bright intense fruit with long dry finish.

Laguna Ridge Vineyards: (all 2011)
Trenton Estate/ Joseph Swan: Full black berry and red fruit flavors with great acidity.
Goldridge/ Dehlinger: Soft and approachable with a slightly dusty floral nose. Distinct bright red fruit flavors and a lush full mouth feel. Complex and harmonious an expressive poem of Pinot.
Soul Patch/Davis Family Vineyards: Spicy and tense with good balance

Green Valley Vineyards: (all 2012)
Emerald Ridge/Dutton Goldfield: Floral nose with intense black and blueberry flavors –spicy mid palate and firm tannins
Keefer Ranch/Kosta Browne: Bright and delicious red fruit, medium tannins and nice level of acidity surfs a long wave of flavor to very pleasing finish.
Fog Dance/Hartford Court: Bright bold bowl of spicy cherries with a hint of sage, and eucalyptus notes with a long finish.

More information:
Russian River Valley Winegrowers

Tinhorn Creek Wines Coming to a Glass Near You

For many visitors a trip to wine country in British Columbia often results in the common refrain: “Where can I get BC wines in the states?” Previously the answer was: “Pretty much nowhere.”

When I visit the Okanagan, I’m faced with the dilemma of take nothing, or schlep a case or two of wine through customs on my own. For me the choice is easy-- I gladly take on the role of pack mule to get the wines home. But now things are about to get much easier for U.S. wine lovers. Tinhorn Creek wines are now available for direct delivery to your doorstep. Hallelujah!

It’s almost as exciting as it use to be getting the new phonebooks, and when the wine arrived this morning I felt like Navin... The Tinhorn Creek is here! The Tinhorn Creek is here! Things are going to start happening now. Oh Yes!



I’ve raved about Tinhorn Creek in many past posts see here, here and here.  And despite the hassle I always purchased wine and carried it home. Then once I got my precious stash home I’d be very protective of it. Hoarding some might say, but honestly if you went through all the effort to hand carry a case or two home, I dare say you’d be protective to the point of hoarding too.

But I’m feeling very generous with my wine now, knowing more Tinhorn Creek is just a phone call away. Heck, I may just have to invite Richard Jennings over so he can experience a bit of what he missed at WBC13 in Penticton. Come on over Richard. If you like, after you try the wine, maybe we can go harass some concierges for their lack of wine knowledge, you know, just for the fun of it. (Richard, you know I say this in jest, but offer to taste is legit.)

As part of the launch for the new shipping program I was sent samples of the following Tinhorn Creek wines that have been chosen to showcase the region’s distinct winemaking style and terroir:

2013 Pinot Gris  – a great summer sipper that’s just been released, bursting with aromas of citrus and tropical fruit with underlying notes of honeysuckle.

2013 Gewurztraminer – 100% Gewürztraminer with subtle aromas of rose petals, lychee, pink grapefruit and spice.

2013 Oldfield Series 2Bench White – premier blend of five different whites, crisp and clean with pear and stone fruit aromas on the nose, and a citrus and apple palate

2011 Cabernet Franc – textbook Cabernet Franc from the Okanagan with lovely fresh red fruits, minty herbs, sage, black currants and spice. ( I’d marry this Cab Franc if it was allowed in my state)

2010 Oldfield Series Merlot – artfully crafted merlot, smooth and luscious, with flavours suggesting cherry and raspberry coated in dark chocolate.

2010 Oldfield Series 2Bench Red – a traditional Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot with lots of rich, crowd-pleasing berry and plum fruit.

Consumers in the US can visit http:/usshop.tinhorn.com shop directly from Tinhorn Creek’s website in US dollars, a minimum of 12 bottles per order is required and consumers may order ‘A Taste of Tinhorn’ mixed case with two of each of six select wines currently available, or make up their own preferred mix. A delivery fee of $29.95USD is applicable, however there are no additional tariffs, fees or customs duties to pay, it’s all included.

For more order information and pricing call 1-888-484-6467 or visit the website at www.tinhorn.com.

7% Solution -- 100% Later

One of the best tasting events, in my opinion, is coming up again this week-- The 7% Solution.

The 7% Solution tasting is dedicated to lesser know wines made in California from just 7% of the acreage planted, as opposed to the other 93% of vineyards that are planted with mainstream varieties.

This is my kind of tasting: small, obscure, and focused. Sort of how I might describe myself.

Anyway, last year I attended the tasting at Bergamot Alley, but never got to write up my post as other obligations (read: paying gigs) got in the way of blog time. So here are my impressions of 7% Solution, 100% after the fact.

17 Winemakers poured last year. I can barely decipher my notes as my handwriting has gone on a bender of late, but my sense memory is still intact and I have not forgotten the following wines.

Faves ( in alpha order):
Arnot-Roberts --Yowza! The 2102 Rosé, Clear Lake, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao -- Dry and light as parchment with an honest and unpretentious flavor of strawberry and spice.

Forlon Hope -- Loved Everything! These wines are major characters-- vibrant and fresh much like winemaker Matthew Rorick.  The 2012 “Trou Grit” Trousseau Gris, Susina Valley practically bounced in the glass. 2011 “Que Saudade” Verdelho-- alive with minerality and crisp citrus notes that make you wanna cry.

Massican -- 2012 Annia-- 46% Ribolla Gialla, 36% Tocai Friulano, 18% Chardonnay, Napa Valley-- I arrived at the table to get the last taste of the last bottle and it was good to the last drop indeed.

Stark -- Buy. Drink. Repeat. I’m already a huge fan of Christian Stark and his 2011 Grenache Blanc, Sarloos Vineyard, Santa Ynez and 2011 Viognier, Daiano Vineyard Sierra Foothills. These two lovely wines are approachable but never predictable.

Two Shepherds -- 2011 Grenache Blanc, Sarloos Vineyard, Santa Ynez  has achieved a cult following and for a good reason. Crisp, light, and balanced with a lingering thought provoking finish. The primary thought being --“I need more of this, now!"

Wind Gap -- 2006 Nebbiolo, Paso Robles -- I love Nebbiolo and this California grown classic is reminiscent of it’s Italian roots with dark intense fruit and a touch of briny sea air.

Head Scratchers:
Dirty & Rowdy - I was excited to try Hardy’s wine and I must admit I was expecting a lot from this label based on the buzz alone. But unfortunately by the time I was able to get to their table the wine temperatures were not ideal. The Semillon was flat and hot and chalky. The Mourvedre was very restrained and subtle, too subtle for my palate. Dang!

But that was all last year-- back to the future now-- if you can nab a ticket to the 2014 7% Solution Tasting, do it. I wholeheartedly encourage you to go to either the SF or Healdsburg tasting-- see details below.

Side note: Loved the little tasting guide notebook they provided last year with room for notes and nifty pocket to hold business cards.

EVENT DETAILS:

SAN FRANCISCO / THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014 / 5pm-8pm

FOLSOM ST. FOUNDRY, 1425 Folsom Street, San Francisco

folsomstreetfoundry.com / 415-795-3644

HEALDSBURG / SATURDAY, MAY 10, 2014 / 1pm-4pm

BERGAMOT ALLEY, 328A Healdsburg Avenue

bergamotalley.com / 707-433-8720

Almost Quit My Blog

Almost quit my blog*

It happened just the other day

I was getting kind of bored

I had nothing left to say

But I didn't and I wonder why 

I feel like letting my wine freak flag fly

And I feel like I owe it to someone

But I'm not giving in an inch to fear 

Cos I promised myself this year 

I feel like I owe it to someone 

(* Sung to the tune of Almost Cut My Hair with apologies to David Crosby for minor lyric changes)

When I started this blog five years ago my purpose was to explore the region in which I live, the vineyards and wineries of my backyard, the Russian River Valley. My blog was a catalyst for my own exploration of wine and wine travel. I never expected it to become more than that. But things changed.

Largely due in part to my blog, I was invited to speak at wine conferences around the world about marketing, social media, writing, and wine tourism. I went from being a newbie at the 2009 Wine Bloggers Conference to a featured speaker on Creating Compelling Content at the 2013 Conference. I even won the Rhone Rangers Wine Blog contest two years in a row see here and here.

Because of my blog I got the opportunity to explore well beyond my backyard including the wine regions of Portugal, Spain, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Canada {especially B.C.} and much of Washington and Oregon. I received assignments to write about wine and travel for several publications and was chosen to become a corespondent for Forbes Travel Guide covering Napa and Sonoma.

But in the midst of all this activity, my blog got left behind.

It was no longer a touchstone of exploration, but a tool to support my other writing activities. It became less spontaneous and more predictable. I no longer wrote posts for the sheer impulsive fun of it all. And slowly, without even realizing it, I squeezed the life out of my blog.

In short, my blog had become a burden.

Many past posts (all of which are fully disclosed) were the result of sponsored or comped access to events at wineries and tastings. I have never compromised my own thoughts and impressions to please anyone regardless of the circumstances, yet the pressure to maintain a high standard of quality posts, under non-implied but always hovering expectations, is exhausting.

Then last year I founded and launched a writing retreat program called Writing Between the Vines that hosts writers on vineyard properties for personal writing retreats of up to one week in length. This program was a direct result of all my travels and the people I’ve met along the way. Now that Writing Between the Vines is up and running I’m re-establishing my commitment to my own personal writing projects.

I will continue to cultivate relationships directly with wineries, wine regions, and destinations that I have an interest in writing about for this blog and other outlets. But for the time being, I'm stepping away from the majority of media invites that come barreling into my inbox while I get back to basics.

So I’m not quitting my blog after all, and like the song says, I feel like I owe it to someone--to me I guess, and especially to my sister, to keep going. I’m going to get reacquainted with it--unfiltered and unsponsored. I hope you will too. Whomever the heck you are.

2014 Travel Guide to California

The 2014 Travel Guide to California was released in January and includes my article on wine revised and expanded from last year to include tasting room trends and some new local spots such The Barlow.

You can find the article here:
http://www.californiatravelguide.travel/

http://globelitetravelmarketing.uberflip.com/i/238271

San Francisco Showcase of British Columbia Food and Wine

Last month I attended a wine dinner at the San Francisco Four Seasons that was part of the International Fancy Food show in San Francisco. The dinner was co-hosted by the B.C. Wine Institute, which builds and markets the Wines of British Columbia and the Province's trade and investment office. Several of the wines featured at the dinner from Laughing Stock, Black Hills Estate, Meyer Family Wines, and Painted Rock -- will now be available in the states through Sonoma based Good Wine Company. This is very good news for wine lovers like myself who gladly take on the role of pack mule to get wines home from Canada. The new distrubution partnership will make the purchase and enjoyment of BC wines in the states much easier. 

The food and wine pairings showcased the regional food bounties of BC and the talents of Mark Richardson, Executive Chef of MKT at the San Francisco Four Seasons and chef Trevor Bird of FABLE Restaurant in Vancouver, Canada. (See full menu below.)

I was familar with the wines presented and have visited all the wineries, and it was an extra treat to reconnect with David Enns, owner and winemaker at Laughing Stock Vineyards and also with Ingo Grady, Director of Wine Education at Mission Hill. The 2011 Mission Hill Family Estate Winery Perpetua Chardonnay, and the 2011 Laughing Stock Vineyards Blind Trust Red were two of my favorite wines at the dinner. 

The room was heavy on “mood lighting” so my photos of the evening are not the best, but the standout pairings of the evening were: 

Chef Trevor Bird’s Black pepper glazed sable fish, British Columbia bok choi, pickled honey mushrooms -- paired with the 2011 Meyer Family Vineyards McLean Creek Road Vineyard Chardonnay, and the 2011 Quails’ Gate Winery Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir, both from the Okanagan Valley.

Chef Mark Richardson’s Goat milk & British Columbia cherry semifreddo, jasmine infused chocolate cake, Mission Hill sweet and Rainier warm poached cherries -- paired with 2007 Vista D’oro Farms & Winery D’oro. 

I’ve been harping on the wonders of British Columbia wine for over three years now, and with good reason, but as always, I encourage you to make a trip and discover the wines for yourself.  

For more details on the wines that will be available thru the partnership visit www.winebcusa.com

The Enduring Bonds of Wine and Love

Celebrating my birthday with my brother and sister

Every year my sister comes to visit between the last week of January and first week of February for my birthday. I plan our days around visits to wineries in Sonoma, Napa, and Mendocino. One year I took her to a wine sensory experience class in Calistoga where we had a blast guessing the scents and aromas found in wine.

Slowly, my sister became very interested in wine. And I became my sister’s personal sommelier. I’m not a wine expert, I am in a constant state of learning, but I have the advantage of living in a world-class wine region and the opportunity travel and taste wines around the world. Also, I have plenty of wine on hand to share and help my sister discover what suits her palate. 

Last year when she was here she really enjoyed the wines I had from my friends in Texas, Merrill and Paul Bonarrigo at Messina Hof.

This Christmas, I sent her a box Messina Hof wine. She called me on Saturday, December 14^th, all excited. “A big box came yesterday! It’s wine right?.” 

--Yeah, it’s wine. It’s your Christmas gift, but open it now Mag, I said. Don’t wait.

--Okay, she said. I’ll call you tomorrow.

That Sunday we discussed the joys of Moscato and she texted me photos of the wine bottles.

“You are turning into me.” I texted back. “Next thing ya know, you’ll start a wine blog!”

Then she called me a few hours later and to say how much she liked the wines and was so glad I told her to open the gift early.

“This is the best Christmas present since the Matel Vac-U-Form we got when we were kids!” She said. 

The Vac-U-Form was kit that allowed you to heat up sheets of plastic over a bazillion degree hot plate (completely exposed to the touch) and then flip the near molten plastic over on to a mold to make all sorts of things like little boats, and cars, and space capsules. God we loved that toy. Well, my brother and sister did, I was too young to use it. It was essentially a child size mold maker with a heat element that approached smelting pot temperatures. That was back in the day when kids toys could maim and kill and it was not considered to be grounds for a lawsuit.

We reminisced about Christmas past and how strange it felt to be the only surviving members of our family. We talked about her pending visit.  

Christmas past: My sister, brother, and me. 

Then, less than 12 hours later, I got the 4am phone call everyone dreads. The call you know is bad before you even answer the phone. My sister was dead. It was sudden and unexpected. A blood clot to the heart.

There was nothing to be done. With no one else to call about the devastating news, it seemed as if it were not real. My first instinct was to call my sister and tell her “You are never going to believe this but apparently you are dead! WTF! How I’m I supposed to carry on?”

I felt like my entire family had left for the airport without me.

I sat in bed in shock and scrolled back through our texts and pictures from hours earlier. I went back through the entire year of texts and found it comical how almost every photo featured a bottle or a glass in the foreground, her happy face in the background. Many of her texts were of labels she came across in the wine shop –“Hey what about this? Would I like this?” she’d ask.

Over the past year we had texted about the thrill of a bright New Zealand Riesling, and the simple beauty of Umbrian Merlot.

Last February, a few days after she returned back home from her last visit here—she sent me a message – “I’m going to try and drink more this year!”-- Meaning she wanted to expand her experience with wine and try new things.

She loved to hear about the places I’d been to discover wine, and the people I’d met along the way. We were planning a trip to the Okanagan --she’d really loved the wines I shared with her from my travels there.

When Maggi died I lost my last anchor to my childhood memories and my best friend as an adult. I feel adrift.

She was my big sister, my protector, my champion.

I was her wine guide.

In the aftermath, wine has become a touchstone of sadness filled with bitter-sweet memories. The last conversation I had with my sister was about wine. I hope in time I’ll find my way back to the joy of wine. And when I do, I’ll raise a glass to my sister Maggi, in a toast to our love for each other, and of wine.