Insider Guide to Walla Walla

Going to Walla Walla for WBC 2108 in October? It’s not too early to start planning your trip now. I recently visited the area as part of a media trip sponsored by Visit Walla Walla Tourism and got the insider perspective on the best places to Eat, Drink, Shop, and Stay.

STAY— 

Courtyard by Marriott Walla Walla

While most attendees will be at the Marcus Whitman—I do highly recommend the Courtyard Marriot just a block west of the Marcus Whitman in case the room blocks are sold out or if you are looking for a place to extend your stay.  The rooms are quiet, sleek and comfortable and the hotel is well located within walking distance of everything but a few places I mention.

EAT—

Marcus Whitman 

If you consider yourself a foodie, you owe it to yourself to make arrangements to partake of the Chef’s Table dinner in the Marcus Whitman under the direction of Executive Chef Grant Hinderliter. The Chef’s Table is available every night priced as follows— Four Course dinner: $80 per person, Five Course: $98 per person, Six Course:  $120 per person. Wines with each course run $25 - $50 per person. You can make your reservation through Dan McCaffery, F/B director at the Marcus Whitman and he will help customize your experience according to your preferences. (restmgr@mwhcc.com) 

Whoopemup Hollow Café

Down home and delicious it’s as if the low-country flavors of the South just dropped from the heavens into the middle of downtown Walla Walla. Hankerin’ for boiled peanuts, gumbo, Carolina style pulled pork or jambalaya? This is the place.

Olive Marketplace andCafe

Everything here is top notch and delicious. From the wood oven fired pizzas to the inspired sandwiches—Olive is a mainstay of Main street and a must visit for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Andrae’s Kitchen at the Co –Op Gas Station!

This ain’t no party, this ain’t no disco, this ain’t no is no fooling around.

Your mind will be blown (and taste buds delighted) by what classically trained Chef Andrae Bopp and his staff are cooking up inside a gas station mini-mart between boxes of Slim Jims and cans of WD 40. Authenticity is key here. Chef Andrae imports heirloom corn from Mexico- it’s a super food from Oaxaca - and makes his own Nixtimal mash, for home-ground corn tortillas. 95% of the menu offerings are scratch prepared on premise. Go for breakfast, stay for lunch. I promise you’ll want to try it all.

Colville Street Patisserie

If you don’t go here at least once during your time in Walla Walla, you’re an idiot. Sorry, don’t mean to be harsh—but it’s true. The baked goods and specialty pastries here rival anything I’ve ever had anywhere—including Paris! PRO TIP: You must get the Kouign Aman –you can thank me later. Oh yeah, did I mention there is gelato too? Just Go. Go. Go. 

WINE 

Downtown Tasting Rooms--

Otis Kenyon -- Great family story with a tasty slate of wines

Browne Family Vineyards-- Featuring bubbles from Guret and wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Chardonnay and more, under the Browne label. Cool tasting room set up and patio seating too. 

Mark Ryan Winery --Artsy setting home to Numbskull Red blend.

Spring Valley Vineyards -- Come for the Nina Lee Syrah, stay for the Kathrine Corkrum Cab Franc! 

Cayuse—Just kidding! It’s only open once year, and probably not for you. Instead take your disappointment next door to Bright’s Candies --guaranteed to sweeten your day since 1934, with hand made chocolates, gelato and old-fashioned nut assortments. Step inside for the sweet aroma alone! 

Wine Tasting Rooms Outside of Town-- 

Buty—Everything here is top notch, beautiful wines that reflect true sense of place. 

Palencia—Try the Albarino.

Eternal—If you hum a few bars of Cannibal Corpse for winemaker Brad Binko, he may just waive your tasting fee. (maybe!) Must Taste: Carmenere.

Tranche Estate—Gorgeous tranquil setting featuring a Rhone heavy portfolio that's well worth the drive. Must Taste: Pape Blanc White Rhone blend. 

SHOP

Midnight Oil SoapCompany

Follow your nose to the divine scents of this tiny shop filed with soaps, lotions, and bath products made in Walla Walla. From lip balms to bath bombs you’ll find something to soothe and pamper yourself from head to toe. Seriously, I live in a land of homemade and artisanal everything –but I just made a web order for more products from Midnight Oil. They are incredible.

As mentioned above my stay was sponsored by the great people at Visit WallaWalla. Snarky opinions are my own.

2018 TASTE AWARD BEST PODCAST

People always say it’s an honor just to be nominated, but it’s even better to WIN! So excited to announce that Wine Road Podcast won the Best Podcast in the Food or Drink category at the 9th Annual Taste Awards. You can see the the complete winner list here.

The nominees in our category were all highly regarded shows and it was humbling to be acknowledged alongside them.

Here is the list of nominees:
1. All in the Industry (Heritage Radio Network)
2. California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon
3. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio
4. Connoisseur’s Corner with Jordan Rich (featuring Roseann Tully)
5. Earth Eats
6. Kitchen Chat – The Chew’s Carla Hall
7. The Feast Podcast
8. Wine for Normal People
9. Wine Road Podcast, The Wine, When, and Where of Northern Sonoma County

DJ Bethy Beth, Marcy Gordon

On April 9th, 2018 Beth Costa and I spent a whirlwind 20 hours in Los Angeles for the Awards Show held at the Kimpton La Per Hotel in Viale dei Romani restaurant in West Hollywood.

Beth Costa, Julie Taboulie, Marcy Gordon

It was great to meet so many fellow nominees and hang out with our table-mate Julie Taboulie who won an award for her PBS show Julie Taboulie’s Lebanese Kitchen. Also shout out to Anya Adams for her win, Best Short Film -- Lemonade Mafia.

In addition to winning, the big highlight of the night was my Radio Boom Box evening bag, that quite a few people thought was a real radio!

2018 Best Podcast Award--It’s in the bag!

Richard Ross, Marcy Gordon, Beth Costa

Many thanks to Richard Ross of Threshold Studios for helping us sound great and collaborating with us on the show. And BIG thanks to Laura Stafford for all her work on the Wine Road Podcast website and compiling all the show notes for each episode. It’s a massive undertaking!

Keep looking up! Elevator Selfie! 

Things are certainly looking up for the Podcast! Tune in here and join us along the Wine Road.

2017 Travel Guide to California - Wine Regions of California

2017 Travel Guide to California -- http://globelitetravelmarketing.uberflip.com/i/782043-2017-travel-guide-to-california

Lodi Wine Bloggers Conference 2016: The Missed Connection — St. Jorge Winery

My Friday excursion tag for #WBC16 in Lodi read “The Wine Abides” -- and as I waited with my group to board the bus to our undisclosed location, I realized I’d left my phone charge cord behind in the conference center. I ran back to retrieve it and when I returned the “Wine Abides” bus had up and left without me! Without a roster of who was on what bus it was impossible for them to know who should be aboard. But my missed connection had a very happy ending as I ended up on the “Souzão Berry Fields Forever” bus with wonderful small group consisting of Rachel of Three Strings Wine, Rob Frisch of Odd Bacchus, Josh from Josh Likes Wine, Andrew Pitt from Visit Lodi, Chris Kern of Forgotten Grapes, and Jo-Jo the Wine Guzzling Bear. (I think Jo-Jo blogs for Costo.)

Jo-Jo bellying up to the barre. 

Our destination was St. Jorge a winery focusing on Portuguese wines along with a few Italian varietals as well. Our hosts for the evening were Vern & Jenise Vierra, the owners of St. Jorge Winery since 2007. Jenise’s family heritage is Italian and Vern’s family was Portuguese hailing from the island of St. Jorge, thus the name of the winery. Together, Vern and Jenise have all the elements for a great reality TV show--like a modern Lucy and Ricky, they were a thoroughly engaging and highly entertaining couple.

The St. Jorge Estate was like a little slice of Portugal transported to the outskirts of Lodi. After a welcome glass of Verdelho along with some extraordinary Portuguese cheeses and traditional breads, we headed out to the vineyards with Vern.

Bounded by olive trees and oak groves the vineyard soils consist of shallow clay and sandy loam. The estate-grown varietals include Verdelho, Malbec, Tinto Cão, Carignan, Trincadeira, Alicanti Bouschet, Alvarelho, Touriga, Souzão, Tempranillo, and Petit Sirah. 

They also produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Maria (Mediera Port), Old Vine Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Sobremesa (Dessert), Syrah, Tannat, Vinho Cor De Rosa, Vinho Tinto Belo, and Vinho Tinto Doce.

With over 22 wines offered, you are sure to find one that suits your palate at St. Jorge.

It was dang hot out and I drank a lot of water. Perhaps too much water as it had the effect of flushing all the salt from my body of making me feel worse in the heat rather than better, and I struggled through the evening until my electrolytes finally balanced out. Note to self: Water is dangerous!

Vern Vierra in the St. Jorge vineyard

After the vineyard tour, Vern led us through a technical tasting in the cellar where we tasted a vertical of Verdelho including the 2011 Verdelho Seco from Silvaspoons Vineyard, 2014 Verdelho from Vierra Estate, and 2011 Maria also Silvaspoons Vineyard. 

We also took a mini liquid tour of Portugal and tasted the 2014 Trincaderia , 2013 Tempranillo,  2014 Touriga, 2014 Souzao, and 2011 Vihno Tinto Doce  (Port).

But that’s not all!

We then tried the 2013 Sangiovese (a personal favorite of mine), 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Syrah, and the 2013 Alicanti Bouschet.

Time for Dinner

Jenise Vierra, at left, our gracious host.

As the air temperature dropped to a balmy 92 degrees, we headed back outside for dinner alfresco in the courtyard with outdoor chandeliers, and elegant glass sculptures atop a long table artfully decorated with fresh cut grapes that I mistook for fake as they just looked too good to be true.

Not fake grapes, the real deal!

The Portuguese and Italian inspired meal was prepared on site by the long-time family chef Lucia Rogers. The menu was as follows: Gazpacho with a fiery kick of jalapeño paired with 2014 Verdelho; Filetto Carpaccio Salad with 2014 Souzao; Bacalao the traditional cod dish of Portugal with 2014 Trincaderia; Pappa Pomodori Ravioli with 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon; and Port infused Fudge Brownie with Armena & Raspberry sauce paired with 2011 Vinho Tinto Doce.

It was an evening of grand hospitality and wine, wine, and more wine!

Grateful thanks to Vern and Jenise for hosting us and also to Mike Shinn, Director of Operations, for his assistance and the lively dinner conversation.

If you visit Lodi, be sure to stop in at St.Jorge. They are open Friday - Sunday from 11-5pm .

St. Jorge Winery
www.stjorgewinery.com

The Wines and Revelations of Josip Brkic - A Visit to Brkic Winery in Bosnia & Herzegovina

“I will make wines like this or I will not make them at all.”

ROAD TRIP SERIES: CROATIA/BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA

Of course almost all winemakers are highly passionate about their craft no matter where they are from. But I found the people I met in Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina were deeply vested in their land and wines in an almost spiritual way.

One of our first visits was to Brkic Winery in Citluk - Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Josip Brkic is a shining example of a winemaker whose wines embody a philosophy that goes beyond mere passion for wine making. It’s a philosophy of life as well. The vineyards, grapes and wines are regarded as members of the family.

We sat down to taste several of the Brikic wines and listen to Josip tell his story.

Fifteen years ago Josip Brkic had an epiphany and it changed the course of his life and the trajectory of his wine making. While exhibiting at an Italian wine expo he learned about biodynamic practices and fell in love with the concept. Up to that point says Brik “I was not thinking of the wine as a living thing, only as a product.” He realized how one farmed and approached the land was a long-term vision that needed to be fully embraced.

After his father died, Josip took over the winery and against all conventional wisdom, and the advice of others, he set out on a new path to convert the vineyards to be fully organic and biodynamic. His goal was to showcase the wine as a document of the year in as pure a manner as possible.

The freedom of the moment, realizing that he alone was making the decision with no one telling him what to do, was thrilling but challenging. Brkic found going organic is risky, and not for everyone. With great changes, came great challenges. All biodynamic vines are organic, but not all organic vines are biodynamic. Brik wanted both.

Converting to all organic practices is a difficult for a vineyard, explained Brkic. “It’s as if the vineyards are addicts that have been on drugs and the new practices presented a shock to them.” It takes time to convert them without stressing them out. But Brik stayed the course and slowly nurtured the vines to a new reality.

As Brkic spoke, a family member translated from Bosnian for us. I focused on Josip’s voice and all of a sudden I felt like I could understand his words completely without translation. Perhaps the wines imbued me with some type of mystical language abilities. I don’t know. I suggest you try some for yourself and see what happens.

When I sampled the wines, it became clear, everything I needed to know about Josip Brkic was there in the glass. Josip’s personal creed and promise also appears on all the labels— “I will make wines like this or I will not make them at all.”

If you find yourself in Bosnia & Herzegovina by all means make the pilgrimage to Brkic tasting room in Citulk. It’s well worth the trip.

Tasting Notes

Unfortunately I spilled wine on my notebook towards the end of the trip so I can barely read my tasting notes. But here is what I could decipher:

Zilavka 2015 : (zhee-lav-ka) Fresh, creamy, bright and light, with full flavors of pear and quince, and notes of limestone and thyme. Pretty, floral nose. Friendly and approachable style.

Greda 2010: An orange wine made from skin macerated Zilavka and aged for 2 years in oak – texture is the name of the game here. Greda is name of the vineyard. Very mellowed orange style wine with long lasting flavors of mead, almonds, orange peel -- Absolutely loved this wine!

Mjesecar 2013: 100% Zilavka. Limited production, numbered bottles. You’ll have to go to Bosnia & Herzegovina for this one, but it is well worth the trip! Named “Moonwalker” after the cycles of the moon in biodynamic charts, not after Michael Jackson and his moonwalking moves as rumor has it.

Rose 2014: Lovely and light, his first time making a rose.

Plava Greda 2013: 100% Blatina fresh and juicy red fruits with a lively minerality. Soft and elegant with long finish. Would be great to pair with smoked meats.

Resources:

Brkic Winery

Kralja Tvrtka 9

Citluk

Bosnia & Herzegovina

http://www.brkic.ba

Brkic Wines are available via Blue Danube Wines.

https://www.bluedanubewine.com

Related Posts:
Možeš Možeš -- The Epic Blue Danube Wine Roadtrip in Croatia!
The Epic Blue Danube Wine Croatia Road Trip-- Video Preview
Essay on Croatia in Wine Enthusiast