Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Aboard the Good Ship Yeatman

View of Oporto across the Douro

If you have been following along with my Portugal posts you may recall that on the second day of the Wine Pleasures pre-tour we stayed overnight at the newly opened Yeatman Hotel. The Yeatman is built into the hillside above the Douro on the Vila de Gia side of the river. The grand open spaces, nautical details and juxtaposition to the river give it the feeling of a luxury ocean liner with all the rooms oriented towards the river, each with a private terrace.

Grand staircase leading to Lobby

After the Wine Pleasures tour I returned to the Yeatman to visit the private wine cellar and view the rest of the property. I stayed on for few days and got to unwind after a jam packed schedule.

The Yeatman is designed not only to take full advantage of the glorious views of Porto across the river. But also to highlight the wine producers of the region. Rooms are named after different wineries and showcase their wine. For die-hard oenophiles one of the Barrel rooms may be to your liking. That's right, you get to sleep inside a barrel.

Sweet dreams of fermentation


A tour of the impressive cellars turned up a few surprises, like a bottle of Ridge Monte Bello from my home state of California. The plan is to allow guests to visit the cellar between 4-6pm and select a bottle for dinner, then based on their selection, the Yeatman chefs create a meal to pair with the wine. I love this idea. It would be worth a trip back just to experience this concept alone. But with all those wines to choose from I'd need to stay a month or more! Below is a brief slide show of what the cellars hold.


One special highlight of my was the lunch I had in the dining room. I dined alone with only the view as my companion and the attentive staff. Dining solo in this type of setting allows you to focus entirely on the food and not feel compelled to make idle chit-chat. Not that I don't like to share, it's just a gift to have things to yourself sometimes. Although I did not partake of any of the Yeatman Spa offerings while I was there, my meal in the hands of chef Ricardo Costa was like a full spa treatment for the taste buds.

To start I had a glass of the 2009 Crasto and the first Amuse bouche set in Three Spoons--
Black Spoon: Scallops with apricot, green asparagus and beurre blanc.
Sliver Spoon: Smoked duck with foie gras, portuguese blood sausage and caviar
White Spoon: Sea urchin cream with caviar
Macaron of Serra del Estrela cheese
Foie gras truffle

Amuse bouche 2: Tuna terrine with foie gras and oyster yogurt and mushroom dust.

First Course: National Octopus with Crab cannelloni, sun dried tomato bread, molecular olives and green tomato consomme with olive oil.

Second: Megrim (a type of white fish) with vitelote potato flakes, vegetable gratin and fennel sauce.

Third: Algrave Almond cheesecake, spearmint sorbet, with hailed orange juice sorbet and vanilla with Taylors 2004 LBV Port.

Coffee and Mignardises ( Pasteis de Belem shown above)

The only thing that pulled me out of my reverie with the meal was the odd background soundtrack playing muzak versions of I Could Have Danced All Night from My Fair Lady, Frank Sinatra's The Lady is a Tramp, U2's I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For, and most strange of all the Theme from MASH--Suicide Is Painless ...um what SiriusXM Channel is that?

The Yeatman is an experience with a capital E. It's luxurious, but not in an oppressive old-guard way--it's light and modern and accommodating in a most gracious way. It's worth a visit for the views alone. Stop in for a port cocktail in the laid-back bar overlooking the Douro and see if you don't feel like you are about to float away on the Good Ship Yeatman.


Friday, May 13, 2011

Wine Pleasures Portugal: The Boxed Set

All good things must come to an end eventually, and although I could keep writing about Portugal for another two months I think I have covered all the highlights now. Whew! Thanks for following along. It was an incredible visit and in addition to all the fabulous wine and port and food my fondest memories are of the people. No matter where you travel, it's the people you meet that make the journey worthwhile. The crazy ones make for great stories, (you-know-who) while others make for lifelong friendships.

Long bus trips can lead to all sorts of mayhem. And if you've ever been on a Wine Bloggers Conference bus trip you probably know the feeling. --- Here's a quick video of some of the people I met on the Wine Pleasures tour and their comments about the trip on our final day in the Douro. Thanks to everyone for being such good sports. The lighting is not so good, but the scenery and background chatter is priceless!



And if that's not enough to scare you... here are some out-takes from "Bucky's Stuffed Wine Show" (Special thanks to Jethro for kind loan of his "teddies")


Next year the Wine Pleasures Conference will be in Umbria, Italy. If you'd like to be a part of it apply here.

Here are all the links to my Portugal series and links to other participants posts as well. If I missed your post let me know and I will add it to the list.


Wine Pleasure Participant Posts:
Grantoursimo --
Douro Part 1
Douro Part 2

Aneesh Bhasin-

Messina Hof:


Friday, May 6, 2011

Portugal Part 8: Quinta da Pacheca Lodge and Cellars

The last night of the Wine Pleasures tour in the Douro was spent at Quinta da Pacheca near the town of Lamego.



Quinta da Pacheca looks like a traditional manor home, but inside it has a sleek modern look. The dining room was one of the most elegant yet relaxed rooms I've ever dined in. Painted a crisp apple green with plush console chairs, it featured an ornate carved wood display case, and large windows overlooking the vineyards and river.

The cellars at Pacheca were like something out of a spread for Vouge magazine. The setting so romantic it's become a hot spot for weddings and receptions. If I ever get married again er...I mean renew my vows...I'd like to do it here.

Our host, winemaker Jose Serpa Pimentel, led us through the cellars and the lagare room that was over 100 years old with 11 largares for lots of stomping action. Mr. Pimentel (who Mr. Terrence Carter pointed out resembles Francis Ford Coppola) was a relaxed and genial host. After a tour of the grounds Jose poured us samples of the wines. My personal favorite was the Quinta de Pacheca 200o LBV Port bottled by Jose's father Eduardo in 2002. Love at first sip. A lush spicy port with notes of dried cherry and sweet plums.

For another perspective on the final days of the tour and some wonderful photos, check out Grantourismo's account of it here.


Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Wine Book Round-Up

Next to wine and travel, my biggest obsession is reading, and wine related books are always in my "to read" stack. Over the last several months I received a variety books for review and a few I purchased myself. Here is a synopsis of what I've been reading.


Even though I live in California Wine country, there's always a new winery to discover or a legendary one to learn more about. The Finest Wines of California offers an imitate portrait of the authors favorite wines and the people who make them. I like books like this because unlike a complete listing guide, this is a highly personal and edited selection that hones in on the best, or in this case the finest, wines currently being produced in each region. Point Rating: 98


Reading Between the Wines by Terry Theise--

Reading Between the Wines is an odyssey thru the authors career as a wine importer and his musings on the enigma of wine. It's more memoir than wine commentary, but for the most part it works--think "My Dinner with Andre" wherein you, the reader, become Wally Shawn to Terry's version of Andre. Except Terry drinks better wine than Andre.

I liked this book for it's writerly approach to the topic of wine, although it did get a bit squirrelly with tangential digressions in places. Some sensory descriptors were rather over the top-- like the line on page 163, describing a Beaune Bressandes, 1969, in which Theise attempts to anthropomorphize a truffle and writes-- "If truffles had orgasms, they might emit this fragrance. Soy, sandlewood, shiitake, you know: Burgundy."

Hey, I'm all for a gripping essence of the moment descriptor and I understand the overwhelming emotion that can take hold of you in the presence of a great Burgundy. (I once described a Burgundy as having the scent of a warm puppy belly.) But truffle sex? Pass the bong Terry. Nevertheless, I think if ever there was a perfect book to read along with a great glass of wine--this is it. Point Rating: 96


The New Connoisseur's Guidebook to California Wine and Wineries by Charles Olken and Joseph Furstenthal--

The New Connoisseur's Guidebook to California Wine and Wineries offers a compendium of the wines and wine regions in California. It makes a great reference book as well as an ad hoc travel guide. I love the organization and layout of this book and the detailed maps. Along with a brief history of California winemaking, grapes and winery listings, the book includes sections about the geography and climate of various regions that I found the most interesting and useful. Point Rating: 95


The Wild Vine by Todd Kilman--

Written in a plodding pseudo-suspense style, I found The Wild Vine hard to get through, but was propelled to carry on out of sheer morbid curiosity to see if anything would actually transpire by the end. There was much factual information on Thomas Jefferson and his contribution to establishing wine in Virginia, but an entire book on the Norton grape is a difficult subject with which to keep a readers attention. I enjoyed the history and background information on the evolution of Virginia as a wine region, but the story of Jenni nee Michael Marsh, the transexual winemaker at Chrysalis that was threaded through the narrative, seemed melodramatic and oddly superfluous to the subject at hand. Point Rating: 75

Point Scale Breakdown:
100-95 -- Read it now.
94-90 -- Worth your time.
89-85 -- Nothing on TV.
84-75 -- Mow the lawn.

Charity Begins with a Corkscrew

I always love a good story behind a wine and Charity Case Wines has a great one. The Charity Case Foundation, founded by a group of Napa winemakers, provides an outlet for winemakers to participate in charitable activities by doing what they do best--making wine. Vintners in the program donate excess juice to create wines bottled under the Charity Case label with all net proceeds donated to Napa county charities.

I received samples of the 2008 Charity Case Rosé Napa Valley and the 2009 Charity Case Sauvignon Blanc both from Napa Valley.

I had planned to share these wine with guests as I usually do with samples to get the opinions of others, but we ended up trying them one night after a power failure left us with few options for dinner. We improvised with what was on hand in our dark fridge and enjoyed the wines with some pretzels and hummus and olive tapenade. Both the Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé paired surprisingly well with the minimal feast of salty and sweet. In fact the Sauvignon Blanc was a perfect paring with all three items while the Rosé seemed best with the hummus.

I think making wine for a charitable cause is a great idea and Charity Case is not only charitable to the recipients of it's foundation, it's also most charitable to the palate of the wine drinker. If you would like to try some Charity Case Wine, (and you really should), you can find ordering information here.

Cheers to Charity Case and all their volunteers who support this worthy endeavor.

Monday, April 11, 2011

5 Easy Steps for a Great Birthday in Portugal

If you are lucky enough to be in Portugal for your birthday as I was, here is all you need to do for a perfect day:

Step 1. Wake up at Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora Do Carmo and party in the cellar!

Quinta Nova Cellar Party Posse

Step 2. Have lunch at Quinta do Panascal

Yes, there was food in between each of these wines too...

Step 3. Check in at Quinta do Pego

View of Douro from Quinta do Pego
Complimentary in room Port

Step 4. Party on into the night at Quinta do Pego: Drink great port, make celebratory toasts, and eat cake with new friends.

Birthday girl with Carlos Filipe Jesus of Quinta do Pego

Check out that cake!

What pairs with Birthday cake? -Everything!
Quinto do Pego Port tasting took place prior to the birthday party

"99 bottles of Port on the wall...99 bottles of Port...Take one down, pass it around..."

Step 5. Repeat step number four above at least 45 times.

Stayed tuned... last few posts in the Portugal Series coming up next.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Portugal Part 7: Foodie Feast at Rui Paula's DOC on the Douro


One of the most enjoyable aspects of Portugal was the cuisine, both rustic and haute. And hardcore foodies will find a plethora of places to make them happy in Portugal. During the Wine Pleasures tour we were treated to dishes featuring the best local ingredients inventively presented. One of the most impressive meals by far was the eight course, ten wine lunch at DOC, one of the top rated restaurants in Portugal under the direction of Chef Rui Paula.

DOC is perched on a pier above the Douro river with expansive views from every seat in the house. But trust me you won't be looking at the view if you dine there, all your attention will be riveted to your plate.




Filipe José Carvalho, Lara Dunston, Me

Ms. Dunston pictured above is an experienced professional, a Goddess of Perpetual Indulgence, able to clean every plate and empty every glass placed before her. Here she smiles, and offers to school me in her ways.

My pictures were taken with my phone camera so not the best representation of the artistry of the dishes. But you can visit GranTourismoTravels for some excellent photos of this meal.

First up: A flatbread with a foam of parmesan vegetable cream in a shot glass. Wine: Alvarinho Vinho Verde

2nd: Pomegranate & octopus carpaccio salad. Wine: Rose Quinta da Revolta

3rd: Blood sausage on olive oil cake with a red wine reduction

4th: Sea Bass with wild rice and asparagus. Wine: Atalya Branco

5th: Bisaro Pork Neck slow cooked for 12 hours at 72 degrees celsius with a chestnut reduction. Wine: Rui Paula Grande Reserva

6th: Emulsion of Mango and Strawberry

7th: Apple and almond Gratin cake with honey apple, cinnamon vanilla ice cream. Wine: Rozes 10 year Tawny

8th: Goat Cheese Samosa with Honey and Cottage cheese ice cream and Pumpkin jelly. Wine: Ruby Niepoort Port

I gave Lara's complete indulgence approach my best shot, but I was no match for her prowess. Pacing was my strategy. We'd already tasted over 20 Ports, wines and moscatels before arriving at DOC and in less than three hours time, we would be off to yet another wine pairing. So I wanted to savor the DOC experience and linger in the warm glow of a fine meal as long as possible.

Next year I will seek some intensive one-on-one indulgence training and coaching prior to the conference in Umbria!



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