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| “I will make wines like this or I will not make them at all.” |
ROAD TRIP SERIES: CROATIA/BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Of course almost all winemakers are highly passionate
about their craft no matter where they are from. But I found the people I met in
Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina were deeply vested in their land and wines in an
almost spiritual way.
One of our first visits was to Brkic Winery in Citluk -
Bosnia & Herzegovina.
Josip Brkic is a shining example of a winemaker whose wines
embody a philosophy that goes beyond mere passion for wine making. It’s a
philosophy of life as well. The vineyards, grapes and wines are regarded as
members of the family.
We sat down to taste several of the Brikic wines and listen
to Josip tell his story.
Fifteen years ago Josip Brkic had an epiphany and it changed
the course of his life and the trajectory of his wine making. While exhibiting
at an Italian wine expo he learned about biodynamic practices and fell in love
with the concept. Up to that point says Brik “I was not thinking of the wine as
a living thing, only as a product.” He realized how one farmed and approached
the land was a long-term vision that needed to be fully embraced.
After his father died, Josip took over the winery and against
all conventional wisdom, and the advice of others, he set out on a new path to convert
the vineyards to be fully organic and biodynamic. His goal was to showcase the
wine as a document of the year in as pure a manner as possible.
The freedom of the moment, realizing that he alone was
making the decision with no one telling him what to do, was thrilling but
challenging. Brkic found going organic is risky, and not for everyone. With
great changes, came great challenges. All biodynamic vines are organic, but not
all organic vines are biodynamic. Brik wanted both.
Converting to all organic practices is a difficult for a
vineyard, explained Brkic. “It’s as if the vineyards are addicts that have been
on drugs and the new practices presented a shock to them.” It takes time to
convert them without stressing them out. But Brik stayed the course and slowly
nurtured the vines to a new reality.
As Brkic spoke, a family member translated from Bosnian for us.
I focused on Josip’s voice and all of a sudden I felt like I could understand
his words completely without translation. Perhaps the wines imbued me
with some type of mystical language abilities. I don’t know. I suggest you
try some for yourself and see what happens.
When I sampled the wines, it became clear, everything I
needed to know about Josip Brkic was there in the glass. Josip’s personal creed and
promise also appears on all the labels— “I will make wines like this or I will
not make them at all.”
If you find yourself in Bosnia & Herzegovina by all
means make the pilgrimage to Brkic tasting room in Citulk. It’s well worth the
trip.
Unfortunately I spilled wine on my notebook towards the end of the trip so I can barely read my tasting notes. But here is what I could decipher:
Zilavka 2015 : (zhee-lav-ka) Fresh,
creamy, bright and light, with full flavors of pear and quince, and notes of
limestone and thyme. Pretty, floral nose. Friendly and approachable style.
Greda 2010: An
orange wine made from skin macerated Zilavka and aged for 2 years in oak –
texture is the name of the game here. Greda is name of the vineyard. Very
mellowed orange style wine with long lasting flavors of mead, almonds, orange
peel -- Absolutely loved this wine!
Mjesecar 2013: 100% Zilavka. Limited production, numbered bottles. You’ll have to go to
Bosnia & Herzegovina for this one, but it is well worth the trip! Named “Moonwalker”
after the cycles of the moon in biodynamic charts, not after Michael Jackson
and his moonwalking moves as rumor has it.
Rose 2014: Lovely
and light, his first time making a rose.
Plava Greda 2013: 100% Blatina fresh and juicy red
fruits with a lively minerality. Soft and elegant with long finish. Would be
great to pair with smoked meats.
Resources:
Brkic Winery
Kralja Tvrtka 9
Citluk
Bosnia & Herzegovina
Brkic Wines are available via Blue Danube Wines.
