Varietal of the Month: Barbera

 

Barbera, a variety native to Italy, can vary in flavor depending on where it’s grown; be it warm or cool climate, and how it is produced. Wines from cool climes tend to display brighter tart red fruits and warmer climes show deeper berry fruit flavors. Typically Barbera is delightfully spicy with good acidity, and tends toward medium to light tannins with a smooth finish. FUN FACT: A little know rumor claims the name of the character played by John Travolta on the 70’s TV show Welcome Back Kotter, was chosen by one of the writers as a subtle nod to his favorite Italian grape— Vitis vinfiera Barbera —Vinnie Barbarino.

 

Here are capsule reviews of Barbera you may find along the Wine Road.

 

Carol Shelton 2022 Barbera D’ Oakley, Planchon Vineyard, Contra Costa County

 

The Carol Shelton 2022 Barbera D’ Oakley is blended with Zinfandel and Merlot.

It has a soft aromatic nose of cherry, cocoa and strawberry. On the palate it’s smooth and silky with medium tannins and good acidity that supports flavors of tart pomegranate, black cherry and blackberry. Secondary notes of dried strawberry, licorice and black pepper come through on the long spicy finish. Pair with Eggplant Parmigianino. NOTE: I had the pleasure of tasting this vintage previously and it has deepened with evolved. It’s always fun and educational to taste a particular vintage over several years if you can.

 

ABV 13.5%

$32

 

Foppiano Vineyards 2022 Cook House Barbera, Russian River Valley

 

The Foppiano Vineyards 2022 Cook House Barbera, from Russian River Valley is a deep ruby color with a magnificent nose of mocha, rose petals, violet, and plum.

On the palate notes of strawberry, boysenberry, mocha, tart cherry and a pleasing note of minty graphite, much like garrigue. Great balance and structure with light grip of tannins and long spicy-herbal-menthol-cherry finish that is quite delicious and satisfying. Pair with pear and gorgonzola pizza.

 

ABV 14.1%

$55

 

Orsi Family 2022 Barbera, Dry Creek Valley

 

The Orsi Family 2022 Barbera, Dry Creek Valley is deep garnet in the glass. On the nose, light scent of pomegranate, anise, and cherry. On the palate the flavors are tart and juicy with notes of dried strawberry, blackberry, cranberry, tart cherry and fleshy dark plum. It has all the earmarks of classic Italian style Barbera with great acidity and loads of licorice, black plum, strawberry, cherry, and an earthy note of tobacco. The initial taut tannins mellow with time in glass. Pair with aged salami and goat cheese crostini.

 

13.9%

$44

 

Peterson 2020 Barbera Tollini Vineyard, Mendocino

 

The Peterson 2020 Barbera is from the Tollini Vineyard in Mendocino. This Barbera has an impish heart and soul that will charm your palate and capture your imagination. On the nose, fleshy black cherry, plum, and garrigue (think mint and thyme). On the palate, it builds steadily with flavors of dried strawberry, sour cherry, cranberry, and black pepper. With time in the glass it comes alive with a juicy vibrancy that carries though to the bright spicy finish. Pair with a creamy mushroom risotto and go heavy on the Parmesan.

 

ABV 14.3%

$24

 

 

Russian River Vineyards 2021 Barbera, Sonoma Mountain Morning Sun Vineyard

 

The Russian River Vineyards 2021 Barbera from Sonoma Mountain, Moring Sun Vineyard is deep garnet in the glass. On the nose, aromas of cocoa dust, blackberry, cherry and a delightful hint of bright strawberry. On the palate the flavors are tart and juicy with notes of dried strawberry, blackberry, cranberry, tart cherry and fleshy dark plum. Bright acidity and medium sandy tannins deliver a mouthful of deep lip-smacking flavor. Rich, balanced, and tremendously nuanced with long juicy finish. Pair with deep fried green olives and blue cheese.

 

ABV 14.9%

$57

 

Seghesio Family Vineyards 2021 Barbera, Home Ranch Vineyard, Alexander Valley

 

The Seghesio Family Vineyards 2021 Barbera is from the Home Ranch Vineyard in Alexander Valley. The nose is an intriguing bouquet of mocha, dusty blackberry, nutmeg and earthy tobacco. Tart and bright with vibrant acidity it’s bursting with flavors of black and red cherry, plum, licorice, leather and black pepper. The tannins transpose from a light grip to long and silky with a juicy and spicy finish. Enjoy with pumpkin sage ravioli.

 

ABV 14.5%

$45

 

Varietal of the Month: Barbera

Barbera is one of Italy’s five most planted grapes and the fifteenth most planted varietal in the world. In California, Barbera is characterized by high acidity and fruity exuberance with medium tannins and a spicy finish. A charming and quaffable varietal, Barbera pairs well with fatty fare that serves to balance the buoyant acidity.

Here are capsule reviews of Barbera you may find along the Wine Road.

 

Amphora 2015 Barbera Clarksburg, Heringer Vineyard

 

The 2015 Amphora Barbera from Clarksburg AVA in Amador County is dark and savory with a fresh floral nose of violets, and spicy note of fennel bulb. On the palate a dance of licorice, black fruits and blueberry jam, with a smooth plum finish. At first sip it reminded me of Cab Franc, but quickly opened into its full Barbera expression with bright acidity and medium tannins that deliver a mouthful of deep lip smacking flavor. Pair with Ragu alla bolgnese over egg noodles.

 

ABV 13.7%

$35

 

Colagrossi 2019 Barbera, Pauli Ranch, Mendocino

 

When I was a kid there was a commercial with the line “Mamma Mia, that’s one spicy meatball.” This 2019 Colagrossi Barbera, Pauli Ranch, Mendocino made me exclaim “Mamma Mia that’s one spicy Barbera!” From start to finish it exudes plucky acidity with good tannin structure and savory rich flavors that open with plum and licorice and then develop further to reveal notes of mocha, tobacco, blackberry and fruitcake—like a classic pannetone. It glides to a long spicy finish with a hint of juicy sour cherry. Pair with cheesy sausage and pepper pizza.

 

ABV 14.7%

$40

 

deLorimier 2018 Barbera, Dry Creek Valley

 

Right out of the gate, the deLorimier 2018 Barbera will capture your attention and captivate your palate with vivid flavors and taut grippy tannins. As the tannins soften they dovetail with the bright acidity to deliver a smooth Sen–Sen like flavor profile with a profusion of licorice, vanilla, lavender and luscious blackberry. Bright, balanced and enjoyable sip after sip. Pair with Eggplant Parmigiana.

 

ABV 15.6%

$46

 

Peterson 2018 Barbera Tollini Vineyard, Mendocino 

 

The Peterson 2018 Barbera from Tollini Vineyard, Mendocino is lively, fruity and fresh with notes of cherry, mulberry and chaparral on the nose. Flavors of plum and blackberry slowly build and gather momentum as they race across the palate and stick the landing with a long spicy finish. Bright and bouncy, pair this Barbera with something creamy and earthy like truffle mac and cheese.

 

ABV 13.9%

$24

 

Portalupi 2020 Barbera Shake Ridge Ranch, Amador County

 

The Portalupi 2020 Barbera is grown in Amador County, a hot spot for Barbera that hosts an annual festival in celebration of the grape. On the nose you’ll find scents of cherry, violets and strawberry. On the palate it springs to life with vivid acidity and lush notes of blackberry and black cherry. Secondary flavors of plum, mocha, vanilla, spicy fig and licorice coalesce with a spicy finish supported by supple tannins. Pair with a simple charcuterie plate of salami and creamy rich cheeses.

 

ABV 14.8%

$48

 

Ramazzotti 2019 Barbera Dry Creek Valley

 

The Ramazzotti 2019 Barbera, from Dry Creek Valley, has an enchanting nose of vanilla and mocha reminiscent of the dust at the end of a box of Count Chocula cereal—soft and wonderful! On the palate it has all the earmarks of classic Italian style Barbera with great acidity and loads of licorice, black plum, strawberry, cherry, and an earthy note of tobacco. The initial grippy tannins mellow with time in glass. Easy to love and fun to drink, pair with a creamy mushroom risotto.

 

ABV 14.5%

$46

 

Seghesio Family Vineyards 2019 Barbera, Home Ranch Vineyard, Alexander Valley

 

The Seghesio 2019 Barbera from Alexander Valley is pert and alive with an aromatic nose of cherry, lavender and strawberry. A fresh purity of flavor predominates across the palate with notes of vanilla, nutmeg, plum, blackberry, and dried strawberry. Juicy and bright it has a persistent oomph and grip with medium tannins, high acidity and a long spicy finish. Pair with classic Spaghetti and Meatballs or Chicken Cacciatore.

 

ABV 15.2%

$45 

 

Carol Shelton 2021 Barbera D’ Oakley, Planchon Vineyard, Contra Costa County

 

Harvested from the 130-year-old Planchon Vineyard, this 2021 Carole Shelton Barbera D’ Oakley is blended along with vineyard mates, Zinfandel and Merlot. The nose is a soft bouquet of mocha, dusty blackberry, nutmeg and earthy tobacco. Tart and bright with zingy acidity it’s flush with flavors of black and red cherry, plum, licorice, leather and black pepper. The tannins transform from grippy to silky with a long spicy finish. Enjoy with pumpkin sage ravioli.

 

ABV 13.8%

$ 

   

Taddei Wines 2018 Barbera Pauli Ranch Mendocino

 

The Taddei Wines 2018 Barbera from Pauli Ranch, Mendocino has a nose comprised of licorice, black pepper, cherry, plum, blackberry pie and vanilla with a touch of clove that makes me think of Chowards’ Violet Scented Gum. On the palate notes of prune, plum, iris, mocha, violets, spicy carnation and a pleasing note of minty graphite, much like garrigue. Great overall balance and tannin structure with a light grip and long finish of spicy-herbal-menthol-cherry, (think Ricola) that is quite delicious and intriguing.

 

ABV 14.8% 

$45