Varietal of the Month: Merlot

 

Merlot practically needs no introduction; it’s one of the Nobel grapes, and one of the most planted grapes in the world. Perhaps you heard of Merlot in a movie that made the grape fall out of fashion? But that was decades ago and Merlot is back front and center and in the swing of things again. Although in truth Merlot never left the scene, it’s just been waiting for it’s moment to shine again and that moment is now.

 

Alexander Valley Vineyards 2020 Merlot, Alexander Valley

The Alexander Valley Vineyards 2020 Merlot is rich, smooth and full flavored. On the nose it has notes of plum, black cherry, vanilla, fig newton, and a touch of graphite. On the palate it sings with juicy cherry, chocolate, cedar and a light note of sage. Soft and plush, with great texture, it has fine balanced tannins that stipple across the palate and through to the finish. Pair with a Sideways watch party.

AVB 14.0%
$24

 

Amphora 2019 Merlot, Dry Creek Valley

The Amphora 2019 Merlot from Dry Creek Valley is garnet in color with a pale rose edge. On the nose an earthy quality comes through with notes of violets, blueberry, cedar and leather. As it opens red raspberry and fig come into play. On the palate it’s deep and full flavored with plum, cassis, and chocolate. Smooth with well integrated tannins that linger on the spicy finish. Pair with spicy chicken-cheese enchiladas .

ABV 13.6%
$55

 

Francis Ford Coppola 2020 Merlot, Alexander Valley

The Francis Ford Coppola 2020 Merlot from Alexander Valley, composed of 82.4% Merlot, 15.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1.5% Cab Franc; has an approachable complexity that makes it an easy choice for sharing among friends and family with diverse palates. On the nose, scents of chocolate, raspberry, vanilla, blueberry, dusty violets and a pleasant whiff of s’mores roasting over a campfire. On the palate it’s rich and plush with fine sandy tannins and flavors of chocolate covered raspberry, rhubarb, and note of black olive. Pair with a poetic and romantic musical such as One From the Heart by Francis Ford Coppola. ;-)

ABV 15.0%
$30

 

Ehert 2019 Merlot, Knights Valley

Imagine a circus of the senses and that’s what you’ll find in a glass of the Ehret 2019 Merlot, composed of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s exciting and vibrant on the nose with scents of bright red cherry, raspberry, vanilla and spun sugar aka cotton candy. On the palate it’s a smooth operator with notes of caramel, plum, huckleberry, cocoa and a note of bay leaf and black olive. Great texture with soft balanced tannins and a spicy finish make this a natural to pair with a variety of dishes from hearty lasagna to grilled salmon.

ABV 15.5%
$65

 

Ektimo 2020 Merlot, Russian River Valley

The Ektimo 2020 Merlot from Russian River Valley is like a poem written by the vineyard with earthy prose and poise you can taste. On the nose it has a gentle herbal note of bay leaf along with scents of dried strawberry, black cherry, and toffee. On the palate, it’s soft and plush with flavors of chocolate cherry, blackberry, tobacco and toasty vanilla. Long finish with supple tannins and a spicy tangy finish. Pair with a rib eye steak and chimichurri sauce.

ABV 14.5%
$36

 

Longboard 2021 Merlot, Dakine Vineyard, Russian River Valley

The Longboard 2021 Merlot, Dakine Vineyard, Russian River Valley is a field blend of Merlot and small amount of Malbec (11%) that is co-fermented. It smells like a warm chocolate éclair (so delicious) with rich scents of plum, caramel and red raspberry too. On the palate it’s plush and curvaceous with deep flavors of chocolate, thyme, and cafe au lait. Fine sandy tannins and great overall structure give it staying power to the last drop. It would be fun to buy a half dozen bottles now and open at two-year intervals to see where it will go. It’s sure to be a special destination. Pair with lamb kabobs and pomegranate sauce.

ABV 14.5%
$48

 

Robert Young 2019 Merlot, Alexander Valley

This meticulously made Robert Young 2019 Merlot from Alexander Valley is a pleasure from beginning to end. On the nose, a heady array of scents rises up from the glass with aromas of blackberry pie, raspberry, black olive, tobacco and chocolate. On the palate it’s luxurious and rich with soft tannins that ripple with flavors of cherry, Santa Rosa plum, dark cocoa, and dried strawberry. Pair with a simple charcuterie board or chili cheeseburgers.

ABV 14.1%
$60

 

Merlot: Varietal of the Month

 

After years of being maligned due to the preferences of a grumpy character in the movie Sideways, Merlot is back. Again. Merlot never went away really, it’s just been patiently waiting for you to rediscover it’s many charms.

 

Dark and inky in in the glass, with soft to medium tannins, Merlot remains one of the most popular grape varieties. Flavors range from strawberry, red berry, plum, cedar, tobacco to blackberry, plum, and black cherry. Merlot is one of the primary grapes used in Bordeaux wine, and it is the most widely planted grape in the Bordeaux wine regions.

 

Merlot pairs well with Italian fare and also great with roasted meats, grilled veggies and many tomato based dishes.

 

Cast 2016 Merlot Windsor Oaks Vineyard Chalk Hill  

 

The Cast 2016 Merlot, Windsor Oaks Vineyard, Chalk Hill is dark garnet in the glass with aromas of black cherry, chocolate and hint of cedar. Flavors of blackberry, mulberry and mocha predominate with good acidity and a velvety mouth feel. Each sip builds upon the last with a long lingering finish. Pair with hearty lamb stew or lamb kabobs.

 

Colagrossi 2016 Merlot RRV, Sonoma County 

 

The Colagrossi 2016 Merlot from Russian River Valley is a bit of a chameleon at first. The pale ruby color shows a tinge of gold about the edges. At first, bright fruit notes of pomegranate and tart cherry dominate the palate, then as it opens it glides gracefully into a plush crush of dark berry fruits with a top note of vanilla and a intriguing touch of sage. Nice structure and good acidity make this Merlot a great prospect for pairing with rich cheesy lasagna. 

 

DeLoach 2018 Merlot Heritage Reserve 

 

Dark purple in the glass, the De Loach 2018 Merlot Heritage Reserve floats like a cloud across the palate. Soft and supple it’s full of dark plum and blueberry jam flavors with grounding notes of vanilla and candied violets. Long finish, with an edge of bay leaf linger on the palate. Pair with charcuterie board of pate, rich cheeses, salami, and grilled vegetables.

 

Hook and Ladder 2015 Merlot Los Amigos Ranch, Chalk Hill

 

The Hook and Ladder 2015 Merlot, Los Amigos Ranch, Chalk Hill is a sight to behold in the glass with a dark purple glow. A rich scent of mocha, violets and vanilla prevails and sets the stage for an earthy blend rhubarb, tobacco leaf and tart cherry on the palate.

Nice medium body with a good balance of fruit and acid. Pair with juicy lamb burgers.

 

Pedroncelli 2017 Merlot Bench Vineyards Dry Creek Valley 

 

Dark garnet color in the glass, the Pedroncelli 2017 Merlot, Bench Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley has velvety smooth tannins and dark fruit flavors. The aroma is floral but spicy with scents of violets and rosebud with a note of thyme. Flavors of ripe sugarplum, tart cherry, blueberry, and cedar notes fill the palate with vanilla and graphite on the finish.  

Pair with pork roast and apple, sage, mushroom stuffing for a festive occasion.

 

Taft Street 2017 Merlot Alexander Valley, Sonoma County 

 

The Taft Street 2017 Merlot is red garnet in color with scents of dusty rose petals and anise. Tart red raspberry and red cherry flavors on the approach settle into deep grounding notes of cedar, tobacco leaf, turtle truffle and chocolate. Medium body with fruity finish and stalky tannins. Pair with roast chicken and stuffed mushrooms.

 

This post first appeared on Along the Wine Road Blog here. 

Okanagan: What’s The Signature Grape?

This is a peach, not a giant grape

In July I traveled to British Columbia, Canada to the Okanagan region as part of a WBC 13 preview hosted by Travel Penticton and Wines of British Columbia. Naturally with four wine writers and our WSET rated host from Travel Penticton, the talk turned to what might be Okanagan’s signature grape.

Some say it’s the Pinot Gris that thrives and delivers the best expression of the region. Crisp and bright, the full flavors benefit from the long summer days and the same rich soils that support so many of the fruit orchards the area is best known for. 

But what about Gewürztraminer? This is a good contender, most all of my favorite whites were Gewürztraminer and I have to give extra points for the sublime manner in which it “pressed into use” at Kettle Valley Winery in the form of Slush Puppies. You have not tasted the joy enhancing aspects of Gewürztraminer until you try the delightful frozen concoction that is the Gewurztraminer Slush Puppy. Think slurppie of your youth, but with a decidedly adult twist.

Another great white was an Ehrenfelser-- dry and peachy and zingy from Lake Breeze Winery. And you can’t rule out Chardonnay--Blue Mountain Winery had one of the most extraordinary Chardonnays I’ve ever tasted--Full bodied with a creamy-peach nose, bright acidity and great balance.

Is it Merlot?
Up here no one will give you a “sideways” glance for ordering Merlot. In fact it is one of the most widely planted grapes and one of the most successful according to my palate. Besides anyone who would let a fictional character define their wine preference needs to get a firm grip on reality. Repeat after me: Miles is not REAL! Obey your own palate. My favorites were from Painted Rock Estate, Township 7  and Poplar Grove. These Merlot’s were deep, dark and elegant with hints of sage and smoke and dark cherries.

The 2006 Syrah I tried at Laughing Stock was the most Burgundian style I’d tasted and so you can’t rule out Rhone’s as a possibility.

Pinot could be in the running too. See Ya Later Ranch and Blue Mountain Vineyard both had excellent examples of what the Okanagan can deliver in terms of Pinot.

But I think my vote might be for the Cab Franc. Normally used as a blending grape, I found the 100% Cab Franc’s I tried in the Okanagan to be rich and earthy with firm tannins and a wide range of flavors, from mint and spice to violet and blackberry. I especially enjoyed the Cab Franc from Tinhorn Creek and Hillside Estates. In fact I brought home a bottle of each.

With so many wonderful grapes, it might be a mistake to try and pigeon-hole the Okanagan with just one designated grape. For now, the discovery process is in full swing and more wineries are experimenting with finding the outer limits of what the climate and soil can deliver for the best expression of the region.

If you are planning to attend WBC 13 in Penticton make plans to arrive early or stay late to discover the region at your own pace and cast your vote on the signature grape.

TRIP PLANNING DETAILS:
Tourism Penticton & Wine Country
1-800-663-5052
Email: visitors@penticton.ca

WINERY DETAILS:
Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars
Hillside Estate Winery
Kettle Valley Winery
Lake Breeze Winery
Laughing Stock Vineyards
Painted Rock Estate
Poplar Grove Winery
See Ya Later Ranch
Tinhorn Creek
Township 7 Vineyards

In case you still need convincing about WBC13:
Top Ten Reasons You Should Go to WBC13 in Okanagan

Messina Hof -- Deep in the Heart of Texas Wine

Paul Bonarrigo, center, flanked by Harvest guests at Messina Hof

In early August I attended a Harvest event as the guest of Paul and Merrill Bonarrigo at the Messina Hof Winery & Resort in Bryan, Texas.  I had some ideas about what Texas is all about.  Even worse, I had ideas about Texas wine, before I’d even tried it. But Whoa Nelly! My whole preconceived notion of Texas and Texas wine was blown double barrel style out of the water during my visit.

First thing to note: Texas in August—um, not for you delicate types or the heat stroke prone. But once I adjusted to the blast furnace effect as you step outside, it was quite tolerable, and of course all of the main buildings were blissfully air-conditioned.

Harvest Weekend--

Every year Messina Hof holds five harvest weekends where the wine club members and the general public come for a day long event of food, fun, and wine wrapped around a hands-on harvest. Feet-on harvest too, as part of the experience includes a romp in the bin a la Lucy Ricardo. There’s even a contest for that.

I’ve worked real harvests before {see here}  – and when I say “real harvest” I mean without all the accoutrements of a gentleman’s style deluxe harvest like the one I attended at Gloria Ferrer-- so I know a bit of what’s involved when it come to harvest—gentlemanly style or not. The bottom line is they can be very educational. But no matter how long you are in the vines, it is true physical work, and it’s good to get an understanding of that. Plus I find it’s always a thrill to see the grapes up close on the vine, handle them, feel their heft and of course taste them in their natural habitat.

The atmosphere at Messina Hof harvest was positively carnival like. Music was blasting down the vines as the guests scurried about filling their bins like kids at Halloween. There was a general buzz of joy as people cut the grapes keeping an eye out for the most interesting grape cluster, for which there was a prize.

Harvest at Messina Hof is big news

I met one guest who hadn’t missed a harvest in five years! People come again and again with their families and friends.  I’ve never seen anything like it. And in the center of it all was Paul Bonarrigo – Winemaker, CEO and Master of Ceremonies. Paul not only rallied the harvest troops-- he posed in his signature red cap for photos with guests, kissed babies, gave his blessing to an newly engaged couple, and kept spirits high. If not for the setting, one might think it was a political rally, with Paul greeting his admiring constituents. It’s that kind of atmosphere.

Merrill Bonarrigo working at harvest

Merrill Bonarrigo plays a crucial role too as co-owner, COO, Mom in Chief and Executive Hospitality Officer. Despite the scope and size of Messina Hof, it is 100% a family run operation. The next generation, Paul VII, (the son of Paul VI and Merrill) is working along side with his wife Karen. And their daughter Sophia Marie (already a savvy social media expert) and the newborn Paul VIII, are waiting in the wings, ready to carry the tradition and heritage of the Messina Hof empire long into the future.

Paul VII, Karen, Paul VIII and Sophia Marie tweeting on the iPhone

The next generation of family winemakers

The overriding philosophy of Messina Hof is family.  Family and respect for their customers is the cornerstone of the entire operation, and no amount of PR hype can fake the genuine enthusiasm and love guests have for Papa Paul and Merrill—the King and Queen of Texas size hospitality.

Mama Rosa

Even Paul’s mother is an active part of the operation.  She can often be found in the tasting room pouring her signature wine Mama Rosa Rose. I sat next to Mama Rosa at the Harvest dinner and I promised I would not reveal the details, but Mama Rosa and I are plotting a get away to Vegas. Shhhh.

My biggest impression from the weekend was how engaged their customers are in all the myriad of activities that take place at the winery. I know what some of you may be thinking, that perhaps Texas is not the most sophisticated wine market. But you would be so very, very wrong.  The Messina Hof guests are well traveled, well read, people from all walks of life, in all professions, and they know their wines. I met professors from nearby A&M University who had recently dined at the French Laundry in Napa, and had a fabulous conversation with a young woman about her favorite food magazine—Lucky Peach! It does not get any more non-stereotypical than that. But perhaps the whole Texas stereotype thing was in my own head, for everything I experienced defied my expectations. I attribute this attitude to the oath we take in California to believe we are the end all be all, but alas that’s not really true. ( I hope I don’t get booted out of the state for saying that!)

The Wines

Yes, Messina Hof does make over 80 wines!!! Yikes...but it’s all in the pursuit of pleasing the customers. It’s true, they make a White Zin—hey, the peeps want what they want—but they also make a Primitivo Cerro Santo Vineyard one of the nicest Primitivo’s I’ve ever had.

It’s hot and dry in Texas and some of the best selections I tried according to my palate were the Angel Late Harvest Riesling Merrill’s Vineyard, the Mistella Glory Late Harvest Muscat Canelli, the Muscato Tribute to Innocence, and the ethereal Solera Texas Sherry -- but while the sheer depth and breadth of the Messina Hof program is daunting—the truth is there are many fine wines in them thar Texas hills.

Also of note the Paulo Port, Cab Franc and Merlot.

The Villa Bed and Breakfast

I first met Merrill and Paul in Portugal at the International Wine Tourism Conference and spent time with them in Italy this year as part of the same event.  So the harvest weekend was also part of a mini-reunion for members of the blogger trip in Italy this past February. Melba Allen, Jennifer Waters and Tom Plant were part of our reunion group. We all stayed onsite at the Villa Bed &Breakfast. 

Reunion in Texas:  Tom Plant, Melba Allen, Me, Paul Bonarrigo, Jennifer Waters, & Merrill Bonarrigo

Each room is decorated with a different theme and filled with European antiques. I had the privilege of staying in the Hof suite dedicated to Merrill’s family history and I loved seeing the family resemblance of Merrill, and her granddaughter Sophia Marie, in the portraits of Merrill’s ancestors.

The Hof generations 

Paul and Merrill recently opened Messina Hof Hill Country a new resort in Fredericksburg that features a wine garten, onsite tasting room and private cottages called the Manor Haus B & B.

Vintage House Restaurant

My first night I dined with Merrill and Paul in the Vintage House restaurant which doubles as their barrel room for the winery. The atmosphere was wonderful and the food exceptional. This was truly fine dining; with a seasonal menu and a “secret recipe” Paulo Legend Salad prepared tableside. Many of the dishes are created with ingredients from the garden just steps outside the door.

Sicilian feast--Deep in the Heart of Cannoli

At a small private dinner in the Vintage Room restaurant on our final night, we reminisced about our travels together over a Sicilian feast prepared by the Vintage House chef.  My family is Sicilian and I can attest the food was authentic. Paul shared some of his library wines at the dinner and the Merlot was a stunner.

I'd like to thank Paul and Merrill, their family and staff, for all their hospitality. And I think someone needs to rewrite the lyrics to the song Deep in the Heart of Texas to mention Messina Hof-- because it's there at Messina Hof, through Paul and Merrill, that the heart beats strong and true for the love of wine & family. 

DETAILS:

Mesinna Hof Winery and Resort

www.messinahof.com

(979) 778-9463 

Vintage House Resturant

Villa B&B

The Wines 

Wines mentioned above: 

Primitivo Cerro Santo Vineyard

Angel Late Harvest Riesling Merrill’s Vineyard

Mistella Glory Late Harvest Muscat Canelli

Muscato Tribute to Innocence

Solera Texas Sherry

Paulo Port

Cab Franc  

Merlot