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| View over Sebastopol at Dutton Ranch. |
Four Days in Sonoma County with The Wine Writers Education Tour (#WWET) June 2-4th, 2025
After years of writing about wine and working in the industry—I found myself falling out of love with wine—it had become more of an obligation and less of a joy. Thus, when Fred Swan announced his next Wine Writers' Educational Tour aka WWET would be held in Sonoma County, where I live, I wavered. The bloom was off the rose so to speak for me regarding wine, but I wanted to see my longtime wine friends, so, I signed up.
What could I possibly gain from touring a region I knew so well? Well, as it turns out—a lot!
At the close of the first day, we had dinner at the Dutton Ranch, hosted by Sonoma County Wine Growers. The Dutton Ranch is a place I drive by frequently, but I had never been there. At the dinner we dined with members of the Century Club which are families that have farmed in Sonoma County for over 100 years— including the Dutton family, Sanchietti, Munselle, Rafanelli, Leras, Azevedo, and the Serres families. These farmers, the wines produced from their grapes, and their individual stories brought forth in me a new appreciation for the work they do and the legacies they carry. Sitting at that long table I was surrounded by people I’d met though wine and because of wine, longtime relationships fostered and developed with wine as the lynchpin. As the day faded into night a warm glow filled the barn and I felt a deep sense pride for my region of Sonoma. Wine is about people and the connections we make. Everyone seated around that long table was proof.
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Century Club Members
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| Yes. I do! Cheers to a renewed vow to wine. |
Driving the backroads through endless miles of vineyards over the course of the conference was a healing experience—restorative. I live in one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world and I had taken it for granted. The WWET tour rekindled my love of wine and reminded me of the pleasures of community and the camaraderie that wine engenders. Touring Sonoma County allowed me to renew my vow to wine, to fall back in love and reignite the spark that captured my heart and once again say— Yes! Yes, I do. I take you wine to be my partner in life.
Here are my impressions and highlights from the four days of the expertly curated tour. (NOTE: All wines tasted are listed by day at the bottom of the page.)
Day 1 - One small step for wine. One giant leap for Sonoma County.
From the very first day it became apparent this tour would be illuminating many things to which I had become jaded.
The day kicked off at J Vineyards with Introduction by Karissa Kruse, President & CEO of Sonoma County Winegrowers.
Karissa is a dynamic speaker, a down-to-earth and energized leader of the Sonoma County Wine Growers. I often wonder if she sleeps in a hyperbaric chamber. Her passion for the work the association and the mission of sustainability is palpable. A short film she presented about the Sonoma County Fundación de la Voz de Los Viñedos (The Voice of the Vineyards) and Leadership Academy program was incredibly moving and inspirational.
The work of the Sonoma County Winegrowers is grounded in respect and support for the history and the legacy of farming families, the land, and the vineyard employees and their families.
J Vineyards Bubble Lounge
Can I tell you a secret? I had never been to the Bubble Lounge! Sure, I know and enjoy J Wines but somehow never made the time to experience the elegant Bubble Lounge.
The wines poured in the sparkling seminar were all wonderful examples of the depth of Sparkling wine in Sonoma County, with J Vineyards Brut Rosé, Iron Horse Vineyards Brut Rosé LD 2016 ( magnum) Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs and the Royal Cuvée 2021, Amista Sparkling Syrah, Dry Creek Valley and Pangloss Cellars Sparkling Chenin Blanc Brut 2021. The new to me, Pangloss Chenin Blanc was a highlight in the line up.
Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Seminar
An extensive seminar in two parts. Pinot Noir Regions of Sonoma County and the Neighborhoods Russian River Valley, with a stunning backdrop, the view from the tasting deck of Gary Farrell Vineyards and Winery.
This was a deep dive into the AVA’s and Sub AVA’s of Pinot Noir in Sonoma County. I enjoyed tasting all the wines presented, but my palate leans towards the Petaluma Gap Pinots as well as those from North Sonoma Coast. In the neighborhoods, Green Valley is my sweet spot, and Laguna Ridge is a happy place as well. This kind of tasting can get quite granular, but if you are new to wine or interested in the many aspects of Pinot Noir in Sonoma County; start tasting widely from the many regions and you will notice the variations and develop your personal preferences too.
All the wines were top notch. And I loved hearing the personal stories from the winemakers. For example: Adrian Manspeaker, owner/winemaker of Joseph Jewell Wines got interested in wine when he started to notice the quality of wine one of his friends brought to his weekly watch party for the Sopranos! Winemakers—They’re just like us!
Day 2 - Chardonnay, Syrah, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon—Oh My!
Ramey Cellars
We started the day at Ramey Cellars for a panel with the legends: David Ramey, Rod Berglund, Joel Peterson and Greg La Follette.
We tasted the wines and listened to winemakers discuss (debate?) their wines and the various attributes that make their wines—climate, site, plant—and wine making style. But we also heard about early childhood experiences that shaped their world view and outlook.
In a “life imitates art’ scenario, I was struck how there are two movies that closely parallel Joel Peterson’s life —Lessons in Chemistry and Drops of God. Both Peterson’s parents were chemists, and his mother applied her chemistry skills to perfecting techniques in the kitchen where young Joel gleaned the lesson of using the best ingredients, which he later applied to winemaking. His father also contributed to the development of young of Joel’s sensory perception and trained him to taste starting at the age of 10 with a demanding ritual of dissecting and detecting the scents and flavor profiles of fruits and herbs and other aromas that are prevalent in wine. Rod Berglund too became acquainted with wine via food and noticed the subtle difference in aromas of rosemary throughout the year. He learned ingredients are key and you don’t need a recipe if you pay attention.
Greg LaFollette was impressed early on by the attention and love a winemaker he met ascribed to the importance of the family unit. His multifaceted background included a degree in plant biology, a stint as the bagpiper on the Queen Mary, AIDS research at UCSF, and at UC Davis he researched and wrote about how wine making techniques effect mouthfeel. (Hello, Renaissance Man!)
David Ramey pioneered many techniques including the use of hoppers over the wine press which became a standard in the industry and noted he was the first to use whole cluster press. In contrast to the fellow panelists he was dismissive on the merit of Ann Noble’s Aroma chart and believes it’s texture and balance that count most. A proponent of making age-worthy Chardonnay, the 2014 Ramey Chardonnay, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros was a perfect example of the longevity that can be achieved.
The collective wisdom four the four panelists was enlightening despite a whiff of competitive ego in the air. But these “legends” earned the title. They are all idiosyncratic in their approach and their wines reflect their philosophies. What more could you ask for? Well perhaps a blanket. It was near freezing in the winery ;-)
Next, we explored the Syrah regions of Sonoma County with examples from Ramey Cellars, Anthill Farms, Argot Wines, Arnot-Roberts, Donelan, Lasseter Family, MacLaren and compared them all to a reference wine, the E. Guigal Brune et Blonde Cote-Rotie 2020. Do I even need to tell you that Sonoma County outshone the Cote-Roite? Well, it did.
A standout in the Syrah tasting was the Arnot-Roberts Syrah Que Syrah, West Sonoma Coast 2021. With a a bright note of juniper and redolent of garrigue—the coastal herbs and shrubs like rosemary, sage, thyme, juniper, lavender, and mint—it rang the bell on my palate. But no time to linger. Next stop Ridge Vineyards.
Ridge Vineyards-Lytton Springs
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| Ridge Lytton Springs vineyard view |
This session was super relaxed after our more formal tastings in the morning. We tasted samples from vineyards in Dry Creek, Geyserville, Sonoma Valley, Russian River Valley and Lytton Springs. All the wines were ones I know well and have many in my cellar. But it was nice to taste in view of the famed vineyards and thaw out from our previous session.
Robert Young Estate Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon Regions of Sonoma County Seminar
As I drove out to Robert Young in Alexander Valley I saw a Bald Eagle on the bridge over the Russian River. Wow! (Note to self: Get out of the house more!)
At Robert Young we convened on top of the ridge at the Scion House with an extraordinary and expansive views over Alexander Valley. At this point I began calling #WWETsoco The Views and Vistas Tour for the jaw dropping views and vistas that you can only get in Sonoma County. (That view was well played Fred!) Of course, the wines were as excellent as the views. As a waxing gibbous moon rose above the panelists, I was lulled into a slight trance by the wines before me. I particularly enjoyed the offerings from Anakota (Knights Valley), A. Raffanelli (Dry Creek Valley), Enfield (Fort Ross-Seaview), and Laurel Glen (Sonoma Mountain).
On the way to dinner, at Diavola Pizzeria, I saw the Bald Eagle again! I took it as sign I was right where I should be.
Day 3 - More is More with a Focus on Sonoma Coast
I had a pet emergency with my Corgi and missed the morning Chardonnay session at Donum Estate but caught up with the group at Littorai in Sebastopol a few minutes from where I live.
Littorai
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| Ted Lemon, Littorai |
We walked the property heard the gospel according to Ted Lemon—a gospel that speaks to the reverence for land and his philosophy of wine: Right Climate. Right Plant. Right Farming.
It reminded me of the tenants of Buddhism— right thought, right speech, right action. Ted lives his credo and it’s mirrored in his elegant, many layered wines. Out in the vineyard we tasted the Littorai 2023 Pinot Noir, Pivot Vineyard, Sonoma Coast and the Littorai 2023 Richardson Ranch, Sonoma Coast. If Ted started a religion, I would gladly join his flock if only for the sacramental wine. There is love in those vines and in the air at Littorai even the winery dog was imbued with an amorous sense of hospitality looking to take me on a personal tour of the vines on the back 40. But we were on a tight schedule, and I had to decline. Next time Rover.
MacRostie
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Regions of The Sonoma Coast AVA Seminar
Once again, the views and vista where front and center at MacRostie where we took another dive into Chardonnay and Pinot Noir focusing in on the Sonoma Coast AVA.
It was a fun and lively panel and apparent that the winemakers enjoyed the perspective of their fellow winemakers as well. We tasted samples from MacRostie, Alma Fria, Flangan, Hartford Family and Three Sticks. All the Sonoma Coast wines are in my palate wheelhouse. The selections from Hartford in Fort Ross and Occidental, MacRostie in Petaluma Gap, and Alma Fria from Annapolis were standouts for me.
DaVero Farms
Ridgley Evers of DaVero Farms positively bursts with pride as he tells the story of how he developed a scrappy piece of property into a Shangri-La—an organic and biodynamic wonderland with regenerative farming practices as the foundation. Ridge speaks with the confidence of a man who has found his calling, or is it crowing? Perhaps that’s why the rooster is their logo? But there is a lot to crow about at DaVero from the olive oil and wine to the farm itself.
The evening was filled with many splendors, a progressive dinner staged at sites around the farm and led by DaVero Co-owner and Chef, Colleen McGlynn. She and her team prepared and presented a showcase of food and wine pairings that I’m still thinking about two weeks later. Every pairing was beyond delicious and so completely on point with the wines. I especially loved the Bruschetta with Ricotta and Pear paired with the 2022 Malvasia Bianca.
Day 4 – The Long and Winding Road to Sonoma Coast and a Tour of My Backyard
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| Jeff Pisoni, Winemaker |
Fort Ross Vineyard
We talk so much about terroir, and some say too much—but standing in the wind and fog high above the Pacific Ocean as winemaker Jeff Pisoni gave an overview of the Fort Ross Vineyard, you get a sense of why it matters. Do you need to stand and shiver in a cold, windy and foggy vineyard to appreciate the wine? No. But it’s an object lesson worth seeking out. Trust me on this. Go where the grapes grow and you will see things and feel things that you can subsequently notice in the wine. Talking about terroir is like hearing someone recount their college acid trip. Maybe it was life changing for them but it’s probably not very meaningful to you. You need to experience it firsthand. Walk the vineyards, see the lay of the land, breathe the air and see the soil. (Drop some acid!) (just kidding) (maybe) Connecting with the land in the vineyard is a great way to connect you to what’s in your glass.
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Get out in the Vineyards!
(Group selfie photo Courtesy of Allison Levine) |
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| Protea at Fort Ross Vineyard |
It's not a casual drive to get to the Fort Ross Tasting room but it’s well worth the effort. In addition to the stellar wines there is a profusion of Protea flowers on the property. Native to South Africa, the protea are exquisite and plentiful with a special garden devoted to the many varieties. There are trails and views and sculptures surrounding the tasting room, pure beauty everywhere you look.
Sebastopol – My Kind of Town!
From the coast we drove back inland for lunch and a tasting at The Redwood in the town of Sebastopol. I'm very familiar with The Redwood, a wonderful restaurant/wine bar just a few blocks from my house. There we enjoyed a repast of Pita and Dips including Hummus with Za’atar spice, Baba Ghanoush with sumac, and Labneh with shallot, dates, and turmeric; Little Gem Salad with pickled vegetables and pecorino cheese; and Grilled chicken with Vadouvan Spice and herbs. All of it a fitting complement to the wines poured. I love The Redwood, it’s a great addition to the bourgeoning wine and food scene in Sebastopol and I was delighted to see it on the agenda for the tour.
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William Allen - Two Shepherds, Leo Hansen- Owner,
Winemaker -Leo Steen, Copain - Ryan Zepaltas - winemaker
Bibiana Pisoni - co-owner, co-winemaker Shared Notes. |
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| Allison Levine, Marcy Gordon, William Allen |
Kosta-Browne, Sebastopol
Next up, Kosta-Browne at the Barlow in Sebastopol, home to a collection of shops and eateries and wine in a former apple processing plant. This last stop of the day was relaxed and congenial with a casual walk around to tasting stations placed throughout the facility with winemaker Julien Howsepian. These wines are so beloved and storied, they barely need an introduction, but by this point in the day I was grateful for no deep dissection of the wines and vines. At last I could just breathe deep and drink. No more spitting for me. I was walking home.
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| Kosta-Browne Winemaker Julien Howsepian |
Big thanks to all the Sponsors and the wineries and winemakers for shining a bright light on Sonoma County and hats off to Fred Swan for orchestrating it all. And a big shout-out to Ingrid Cheng and Anna Delgado for all their work pouring and setting up at each tasting. (Plus a special thanks to Ingrid for laughing at all my stupid jokes :-)
WINES
Day 1 Wines
Pinot Noir Regions of Sonoma County
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery - Brent McKoy - winemaker
Gary Farrell Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2022
Anaba - Katy Wilson - winemaker
Anaba Pinot Noir Las Brisas Vineyard, Carneros 2021
Joseph Jewell - Adrian Manspeaker - owner/winemaker
Joseph Jewell Pinot Noir Van der Kamp Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain 2021
Red Car - Tanner Scheer - winemaker
Red Car Estate Pinot Noir, West Sonoma Coast 2021
Brooks Note Winery - Gary Brooks - owner/winemaker
Brooks Note Pinot Noir Panther Ridge Petaluma Gap 2022
Sandler - Ed Kurtzman - owner/winemaker
Sandler Pinot Noir Madzia’s Vineyard, Bennett Valley 2021
Pinot Noir Neighborhoods of Russian River Valley
Sebastopol Hills
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery - Brent McKoy - winemaker
Gary Farrell Pinot Noir McDonald Vineyard, Russian River Valley 2019
Kanzler Vineyards - Alex Kanzler - owner/winemaker
Kanzler Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2019
Green Valley
Scherrer Winery - Fred Scherrer - owner/winemaker
Scherrer Gunsalus Pinot Noir, Green Valley of Russian River Valley 2019
Chenoweth - Amy Chenoweth - winemaker/proprietor
Chenoweth Bootlegger’s Pinot Noir, Green Valley of Russian River Valley 2019
Middle Reach
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery - Brent McKoy - winemaker
Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Rochioli Vineyard, Russian River Valley 2019
Baciagalupi - Ashley Herzberg - winemaker
Baciagalupi Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2021
Laguna Ridge
Dehlinger - Eva Dehlinger - partner & general manager
Dehlinger Pinot Noir Altamont, Russian River Valley 2022
Lynmar Estate - Pete Soergel - GM/winemaker
Lymnar Estate Pinot Noir Quail Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley 2021
Santa Rosa Plains
Lando - Sam Lando - owner/winemaker
Lando Pinot Noir Sauves la Vie, Russian River Valley 2022
Benovia - Mike Sullivan - winemaker/co-owner
Benovia Winery Pinot Noir Martaella Vineyard, Russian River Valley 2021
Eastern Hills
Ancient Oak - Greg LaFollette - winemaker
Ancient Oak Pinot Noir Siebert Ranch, Russian River Valley 2022
Day 2 Wines:
The Legends Tasting
David Ramey
Ramey Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard, Carneros 2014 (magnum)
Ramey Pinot Noir Westside Farms, Russian River Valley 2022
Ramey Claret, Napa Valley 2007
Rod Berglund
Joseph Swan Pinot Noir Trenton Estate, Russian River Valley 2005
oseph Swan Pinot Noir Tilton Hill, Russian River Valley 2018
https://www.swanwinery.com I: josephswanwines
Greg LaFollette
DuNah Chardonnay Tre Cuvée Sonoma Coast 2006
Ancient Oak Reserve Chardonnay “Praxilla,” Russian River Valley 2018
BV Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 6, Rutherford 1996
Ancient Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Berger Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, 2014
https://www.ao.wine F: AncientOakCellars. I: ancientoakcellars
Joel Peterson
Ravenswood Zinfandel Old Hill Ranch, Sonoma Valley 1990
Once and Future Zinfandel Old Hill Ranch, Sonoma Valley 2023
Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard, Russian River Valley 1993 (magnum)
Syrah Regions of Sonoma County
Ramey Wine Cellars - David Ramey - founder
Ramey Wine Cellars Rodgers Creek Vineyard Syrah (Petaluma Gap) 2019
Anthill Farms - Anthony Filiberti -owner, winemaker
Anthill Farms Campbell Ranch, Sonoma Coast (Annapolis-Sea Ranch) 2021
Argot Wines - Justin Harmon - owner, winemaker
Argot Wines Indigo, Sonoma Mountain 2021
Arnot-Roberts - Duncan Arnot Meyers & Nathan Roberts - co-owners
Arnot-Roberts Syrah Que Syrah, West Sonoma Coast 2021
Donelan - David Milner - winemaker
Donelan Syrah Judge Vineyard, Bennett Valley 2019
Lasseter Family - Tony Biagi - winemaker
Lasseter Syrah, Trinity Ridge Vineyard, Moon Mountain District 2021
MacLaren - Steve Law - owner, winemaker
MacLaren Syrah, Dutton-Gregori Vineyard, Russian River Valley
E. Guigal - Reference Wine
E. Guigal Brune et Blonde Cote-Rotie 2020
Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel
Ridge Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley 2022
Ridge Geyserville, Alexander Valley 2023
Ridge Pagani Ranch Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley 2022
Ridge San Lorenzo, Russian River Valley 2022
Ridge Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley 1999 (magnum)
Cabernet Sauvignon Regions of Sonoma County
Robert Young Estate - Matt Michael - winemaker
Robert Young Estate Bob’s Burn Pile Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2020
Anakota - Trey Christy - brand manager for Anakota & Verité
Anakota Helena Montana, Knights Valley 2019
A. Rafanelli - Shelly Rafanelli-Fehlman - proprietor, winemaker
A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley 2019
Enfield Wine Co. - John Lockwood - proprietor/winemaker
Enfield Wine Co. Cabernet Sauvignon Waterhorse Ridge, Fort Ross-Seaview 2022
Fisher Vineyards - Adam Goodrich - winemaker
Fisher Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Estate Vineyard, Sonoma County 2019
Hamel Family Wines - John Hamel - director of winegrowing
Hamel Nuns Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon, Moon Mountain District 2019
Laurel Glen - Randall Watkins - winemaker
Laurel Glen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain 2019
Pine Mountain Vineyards - Doug Hackett - winemaker
Pine Mountain Vineyards Estate Reserve Ca
Day 3 Wines
Chardonnay Panel
MacRostie Chardonnay Nightwing Vineyard, Petaluma Gap 2022
Alma Fria Chardonnay Campbell Ranch, West Sonoma Coast (Annapolis) 2021
Hartford Chardonnay Far Coast Vineyard, West Sonoma Coast (Fort Ross) 2023
Hartford Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard, West Sonoma Coast (Occidental) 2023
Pinot Noir Panel
MacRostie Chardonnay Nightwing Vineyard, Petaluma Gap 2022
Alma Fria Pinot Noir Richardson Ranch, West Sonoma Coast (Annapolis) 2023
Hartford Pinot Noir Far Coast Vineyard, West Sonoma Coast (Fort Ross) 2023
Hartford Pinot Noir Seascape Vineyard, West Sonoma Coast (Occidental) 2023
DaVero Wines
DaVero Rosato d’Amici “Pride”, Ltd Ed, Lodi 2022
DaVero Malvasia Bianca, Valladares Estate Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley 2022
DaVero Sangiovese, Hawk Mountain Estate Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley 2022
DaVero “Altobasso”, Estate, Dry Creek Valley 2019
DaVero Sagrantino, Hawk Mountain Estate Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley 2022
DaVero Late Harvest Moscato, Valladares Estate Vineyard 2016
Day 4 Wines
Fort Ross Vineyard - Jeff Pisoni - winemaker
Fort Ross Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir, Fort Ross-Seaview 2024
Fort Ross Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Fort Ross-Seaview 2023
Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay, Fort Ross-Seaview 2023
Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay ‘Mother of Pearl,’ Fort Ross-Seaview 2023
Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay, Fort Ross-Seaview 2013
Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir, Fort Ross-Seaview 2023
Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir ‘Terraces,’ Fort Ross-Seaview 2023
Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir ‘Stagecoach Road,’ Fort Ross-Seaview 2023
Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir, Fort Ross-Seaview 2015
Sauvignon Blanc & Interesting Whites Lunch
Shared Notes - Bibiana Pisoni - co-owner, co-winemaker
Shared Notes Les Pierres Qui Décident, Russian River Valley 2023
Shared Notes Les Leçons des Maîtres, Russian River Valley 2013
Captûre
Captûre Sauvignon Blanc, Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak 2023
Copain - Ryan Zepaltas - winemaker
Copain Estate Picpoul Blanc, Russian River Valley 2023
Leo Steen - Leo Hansen - owner, winemaker
Leo Steen Chenin Blanc, Saini Farms, Dry Creek Valley 2023
Leo Steen Chenin Blanc, Saini Farms, Dry Creek Valley 2010
Two Shepherds - William Allen - owner, winemaker
Two Shepherds Pinot Gris Ramato Clarbec Vineyard, Sonoma Valley 2024
Kosta Brown
Kosta-Browne - Julien Howsepian - winemaker
Kosta Browne Chardonnay One Sixteen, Russian River Valley 2023
Kosta Browne Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2023
Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Gaps Crown, Petaluma Gap 2023
Kosta Browne Beaune Premier Cru 2022
