There’s Something About Carlton...

Carlton, Oregon may not have the starring role in a Farrelly Brothers movie, but it could certainly have its own reality show about the spirit of collaboration, fine wine, and beautiful living. Yes, there’s something about Carlton, and almost everyone one I spoke to mentioned there was an irresistible quality that drew them to the community.

After WBC12 Portland ended, I was part of a group invited back to Carlton, site of the Cuffed in Carlton extravaganza, for a closer look at what makes the tiny town so appealing for wine tourists as well as those just seeking an escape to a spot that puts the O in hospitality. That’s O, as in "Oh yeah, this is the place.”

Walk in the Park

I’ve been to many walk around tastings over the years but Carlton’s Walk in the Park was one of the most pleasant and relaxing events ever. It was a welcome down shift from the red line of WBC activity. At Walk in the Park we were left to wander at our own pace and just unwind. I sampled many of the wines in the tasting tent and then strolled through the art exhibits. There was a great band jamming out on one end of the park and a row of classic cars on display. I felt like Goldilocks --in that I’d found the perfect size festival, not too big, not too small, just right. O--"Oh yeah."

Republic of Jam

Come for the Jam,  Stay for the COCKTAILS! 

Later on after Walk in the Park we reconvened on Main Street at Republic of Jam with our hosts Amy and Lynette. What’s the best way to revive a tired wine blogger? With cocktails! But not just any old cocktails, no, these were inspired creations prepared from fine ingredients with speciality syrups and jams made on the premises. O--"Oh Yeah, this is the place!!!”

Losing my head at Republic of Jam

When @winebratsf talks...people listen!

Amy and Lynette of Republic of Jam -- the hosts with the most.

Post cocktail hour we stepped next door to the Horse Radish for live music and dinner. I almost did not recognize the place since the last time I was there for the Cuffed in Carlton Dinner. What a transformation. Now it was back to its regular configuration-- perfect for kicking back and enjoying the show. I’m sure we had some wine with dinner but all I remember was the excellent beer from Fire Mountain Brewery.

Casa della Valle

Joe and Eve of Casa della Valle

After dinner we were all given directions to our respective lodging arrangements for the evening. Melanie (@dallaswinechick) and I were pointed in the direction of Casa delle Valle, a few blocks away on Pine Street. We were told to follow Pine for several blocks and bear right as the road curved. You can’t miss it we were assured. We came to a fork in the road but it was very dark and we were unclear which way to head. We stumbled a few more blocks onward and I saw a man across the street from us. “Excuse me.” I yelled. “Is there a B and B around here?”

--A what? What’s a B and B? he replied. 

--Um, it means Bed and Breakfast.

--Oh that – yeah, it’s right in front of you.

Hey, we are wine bloggers not Lewis and Clark. Anyway that’s my explanation and I’m sticking with it. We rang the bell at Cassa delle Valle and were greeted by Eve who owns and runs the B & B with her husband Joe. Eve showed us around and I immediately knew Melanie and I had lucked out with the accommodations. Casa della Valle is more than a B & B-- it’s a treasure trove of antiques and collectibles; a mini museum of all things beautiful and many things kitsch. We spent close to 35 minutes just gawking and gazing at all the fabulous items Joe and Eve had collected over the years. O--"Oh yeah, this is the place.”

That night, tucked into my comfy bed, I got my first deep sleep of the week. In the morning I awoke to a gentle thumping sound that turned out to be Ms. DallasWineChick doing her calisthenics in the other guest room. That girl is in shape!

Breakfast at Casa della Valle--
notice the grape pattern on the china.

Eve prepared us a lovely breakfast and I wondered if she had chosen the grape leaf china pattern just for us. I seemed to be exactly the kind of special touch she would make for her wine blogging guests. I asked Eve how she started collecting. “Well,” she said, “My mother was weird …” Mine too I thought. No wonder I felt so at home there. Cassa della Valle may not be the fanciest or most expensive lodging choice in Carlton, but it is hands down the most fun and interesting. I guarantee that.

Just a few of the many wines of the region

If you are planning a trip to Willamette Valley region of Oregon and looking for a fine wine experience wrapped around great food, small town charm and hospitality-- look no further than Carlton. O--Oh yeah, Carlton is the place.

Details:

Walk In the Park

Republic of Jam

Casa della Valle
Carlton Business Association

Featured Wineries & Tasting Rooms:

Cliff Creek
Ken Wright Cellars
K&M
Lemelson
Luminous Hills
Seven of Hearts
Wildaire Cellars

Brew House:
Fire Mountain Brewery

Link to Melanie’s Account of UnCuffed in Carlton

Back to the Future at Buena Vista Winery --Some Like It Boisset

Whenever I get an invitation to any event that is associated with Jean-Charles Boisset I drop everything, clear the calendar, and make sure I can attend. JCB events are never dull and always illuminating in ways one can't anticipate.

Just about six weeks ago I was invited to tour the grounds of the newly restored Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma and witness the first grapes placed into the new custom built wine tanks as part of the Grand Re-Opening Ceremony. I live tweeted the event and posted video and pictures, but for a full account afterwards it takes me some time to process it all and the writer in me needs to let it marinate, let the essence of the experience bubble up in to my conscious.  Others have written more objective accounts of the day (see links below) —but if you want the magical mystery tour of my synapses read on—

Back To The Future
Upon arrival at the property we were greeted by the Count of Buena Vista himself –well actually it was an actor portraying Count Haraszthy— who was our escort on a journey back in time to the birth of California winemaking.

We strolled the grounds with the Count who led us past historical markers telling the story of the family and winery as we made our way towards the inner courtyard. Then Jean-Charles Boisset appeared and took us deeper into the property by way of the tasting room and museum, the courtyard vortex fountain, and of course the cellars themselves.

No stone has been left unturned, un-reinforced or unpolished--literally. It’s a restoration of the highest order. Only a Hollywood plastic surgeon could work more magic on the old façade and restore it to its full luster and glory. From replanting the historic crops and trees and a complete re-engineering of the landscaping, to the total rebuilding of the cellar and tasting room— Boisset is moving Buena Vista back to the future and into the forefront of California winemaking and wine tourism.

There was ribbon cutting and sabering and cellar anointing. There was “Some Like It Hot” playing on continuous loop in the cellar. There was Tokaji, birthday cake, proclamations, and more celebrating. And of course there was wine.

Behind the Scenes of a Mastermind

In front of the cellar sits a fountain with a natural vortex used to dynamise the water for biodynamic practices. As I stood by the pool watching the flowers swirl by, I realized the mighty vortex of JCB had drawn me in once again. The master of events and spectacle had pulled another fabulous rabbit of wonder from his imagination filled hat. As usual I was curious about the work behind-the-scenes. I would dearly love to be a fly on the wall during one of the Boisset marketing and event meetings –I can just imagine the conversations that may unfold--

“We shall hang an alligator from the sky to commemorate The Counts tragic but awe inspiring demise in the jaws of a gator. Then we will feast upon gator meat and look death in the eye! Yes --we must honor Count Haraszthy --he is a hero, a super star like our modern day sports figures. Let us make him a modern hero, in zee modern fashion. --We must have zee bobble head made in his image!” 

Oh yes, The Count of Buena Vista bobble head. Such a thing exists. It’s sitting on my desk right now. Mine is imbued with mystical powers much like a Magic 8 ball and is able to answer Yes and No questions. I frequently consult it about the weather and fashion.

JCB is not selling mere wine, he is selling a sensate experience – a memorable affair that guests can savor long after the bottle has been opened—a memory that lingers in theater of the mind.

Dan Berger recently wrote a piece asking—“Is Jean-Charles Boisset the next Robert Mondavi?” I think in part he could be, but JCB is so utterly in tune to his own inner vision that whatever role he assumes will not be a replacement of Mondavi, but a completely unique interpretation and a legacy of his own devise.

Some Like It Boisset

While I watched the scenes of “Some Like It Hot” flicker on the cellar walls it occurred to me that JCB is so very much like the character Tony Curtis portrays on screen. He is the embodiment of the charm, the romance, the sophistication, and most of all the seduction. Some may not always understand his methods, but for visitors seeking an entertaining and educational wine experience—some will certainly like it Boisset.

I am looking forward to what Jean-Charles Boisset has to say about the state of wine tourism when he delivers the keynote at the 2nd Annual Wine Tourism Conference that will take place in just a few weeks in Santa Rosa. Wine tourism in all aspects is a great fascination of mine and I think his talk alone will be worth the price of admission.

Disclosure:
I am working on behalf of the Wine Tourism Conference to promote the event. But my opinions and utter fascination with JCB are entirely my own.

Details:
Buena Vista Winery is located at 18000 Old Winery Road in Sonoma.
www.buenavistawinery.com.

Other accounts of the event can be found here:

WineEpiphany

Sonoma News

Napa Valley Register 

Folks, We Got Trouble

I wanna be a blogger!

(Ya Got) Trouble

 -- lyrics by Meredith Willson from The Music Man (with a few changes in boldface by me) 

Folks we got Trouble--

And it starts with B and it ends with G

And its name is Blogging

Trouble, oh we got trouble,

Right here in River City!

With a capital "T"

That rhymes with "B"

And that stands for Travel Blog,

We've surely got trouble!

Right here in River City,

Right here!

Gotta figger out a way

To keep the young ones {employed} after school!

Trouble, trouble, trouble, trouble, trouble...

I recently had a conversation with a young man – 18 years old-- whose mother asked me to speak to him because he wants to quit school to become a travel blogger. Yes, apparently “travel blogger” is a now career path.

The mother was panicked about all this but at the same time curious if it was indeed a valid career pursuit. On the one hand-- they could save a bundle of money if he did not go to college. On the other hand-- they may end up paying more in the long run keeping him housed and fed while he “develops” his career from their home-- rent free.

She wanted him to be happy. And she was willing to let him skip school if this would bring him happiness.  Well this whole happiness concept makes my blood boil.

I know you want to give your kid everything and support them in any way you can. You want them to be happy and fulfilled. But happiness is not an inalienable right. The constitution says we are granted “Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness” —you are free to pursue it –but nowhere does it say you deserve it or will actually attain it. The pursuit of happiness is just that a pursuit—not a guarantee. But by all means go out and pursue it—on your own dime.

I went to college. I worked and paid my own way. I lived at home for one month after graduation and then left. Forever. It was more the expected pattern when I was a kid.

Things are different now--

So I spoke to Max (not his real name--his real name is Mark). And he wants to have a life of adventure and freedom and thinks school is a waste of time because he believes that when he graduates “there will be no jobs for [him] anyway.” And he feels it is beneath him to take any old job instead of a career position, and by his logic if he skipped school he would be years ahead of his peers in earning power. Those were his words “earning power”

But that was an interesting point. When I graduated from college it was in the midst of a recession and there were very few jobs available, so I took the retail and service sector jobs and kept looking for a break. Eventually I got a “real job” and made real money-- but what Mark said is true-- if you spin your wheels outside of a career track you are at a disadvantage and are set back in your “life long earning power” compared to peers that entered the job market at the same time and got career positions. But lucky for me the dot-com years came along and I more than made up for it. I made way more money than I ever imagined, but also gave away a huge hunk of my life for it. I don’t regret working in corporations and in startups – in a way it was very much like traveling to a foreign county with strange customs and language. It was wild. I saw the sights! And got paid handsomely for it.

I asked Mark why he thought travel blogging was the path to success and how he would make it work. He said it would cost him almost nothing to start up a blog and then all he had to do was “…go to conferences and meet the hotel and travel people who give out the free trips…”

AGGGHHHH!!!

“Where did you hear that?” I asked.

“I saw a post about it.” he said.

Yes, he did mention TBEX—all those sweet tweets about free hotels and tours and lavish parties got his attention. His mother told me he wants her to pay his way to TBEX in Toronto so he can launch his career. She had no idea what TBEX was and asked me if it was worth it for her to pay and send him. (DOUBLE AGGGH!!! )

I did not try to crush his dream (yet),  instead I suggested he write up some of his travel experiences. Mark said his only prior travel experience was with the family on a Carnival cruise – which he claimed,  “…was awesome.”

I suggested he go to Cuba and write about it.

“Cuba! You can help get me a trip there?”

“No. Just get in your car and drive to Calle Ocho ( 8^th street in Miami) and you are essentially in Cuba. Walk around Little Havana, talk to people, eat some street food and then write about it.”

“But no one speaks English there. And I don’t drive”

AGGH-- When did this no teen driving thing happen?

“Take a bus. Real travel is all about public transportation.”

“I don’t know. That’s not the kind of travel I have in mind.”

“What kind of travel do you have in mind?”

“The kind where people pay you to go and blog about it.”

Thank you Internet for creating this monster of misinformation!

Well, the conversation deteriorated from there. Oddly, Mark felt that all he needed to do was declare what he wanted to be, and it would happen. And he wanted to be a “travel blogger”. The level of entitlement he seemed to have was astounding.  

I told him his whole idea was a fantasy. I laid out the cold hard facts that “being a travel blogger” is not a real money making career save for a handful of people out there that are more about selling advertising than writing about travel.

I told him if he really wanted to see the world and get paid for it—he should join the Marines.  Of course this pissed his mother off that I suggested the military, but hey, that’s at least a real career path. 

Now if only he wanted to be a wine blogger. Because everyone knows wine blogging is the path to fame and glory!!

Folks we got Trouble ….

UPDATE:
August 2014-- Our wannabe travel blogger, Mark, is enrolled in an on-line course to study animation and currently has a job at Starbucks. He never did make it to a TBEX. He still lives at home. (sigh)

Diary: Wine Bloggers Conference 2012 - Portland, Oregon

Welcome to Portland--Land of VooDoo

How it all unfolded at the 2012 Wine Blogger Conference in Portland, Oregon.

THURSDAY August 16 

12:00 PM

Arrive Santa Rosa Airport with a contingent of WBC people bound for Portland, Oregon including:

Taylor Eason @TaylorEason, Lisa Mattson @lisamattsonwine, Nick Solga @fermented, Sheri Housman @SLHousman, Anthony Burich @aburich, Robert Larsen @RSVineyards, and many more.

Talyor gets nabbed at security for carrying a dangerous corkscrew and is forced to relinquish it. Oh TSA, when we will ever again be able to travel without fear of corkscrews? Standing in line I notice many signs warning passengers that Marijuana is still an illegal drug and not allowed on the plane. And yet they take our corkscrews.

2:30PM

Arrive PDX and jump on the MAX train to the Doubletree. After a short pow-wow with the WBC organizers I’m off to taste some wine at last.

4:45PM--New releases from Two Shepherds with William Allen. You can read all about the tasting here in this post Flock it to Me.

5:54 PM —

Reunion with wine and travel writing colleague Mattie Bamman of @ravenoustravelr whom I met on a press trip in Croatia. Mattie lives in PDX and this is his first WBC—it’s catch up time – so we head off to the Doug Fir Lounge for cocktails and tasty fare.

At Doug Fir Lounge with @ravenoustravelr

7:30 PM—Wine of Oregon Welcome Reception

This was a great overview of the wines of Oregon and I like that it was dedicated to just wines from the region. Since Mattie is a local he was my spirit guide through the selections. This was one of my favorite tasting events of the conference. 

11:30 PM After Party-Party Zone--

I stop in at a few parties, but I call it a night early because I have work to do. Impossible but true. I must do a final edit on the manuscript for my travel humor anthology—Leave the Lipstick, Take the Iguana-- that’s due back to the publisher in three days.

FRIDAY August 17^th

10:00 AM

I work the tradeshow table for the Wine Tourism Conference and while I’m not able to leave to get any of the Argentina wine paring treats, I do get a few tasty samples thanks to Xandria of @brixchik_xan.  By the way, if you are a blogger and want to attend the Wine Tourism Conference in November you can register for a special rate here: https://www.zephyradventures.com/WTC_bloggers.htm.

12:30 PM—Keynote with Randall Grahm

Grahm’s speech was loquacious and erudite, 100% unfiltered and with minimal manipulation delivering the message we should all live it up before the Grim Reaper takes our wine glass away. Well, actually that’s not what he said at all--that’s just my interpretation. I found his speech felt rather maudlin and Doom-trospective, but hey, we are all getting older. I loved the fact the speech had footnotes--how very DFW.

1:30PM—White & Rose Speed Tasting

Great showing of white’s and one very interesting shaped bottle from Fontanta Candida passed by our table. The rep from the winery described the bottle as “very sexy” and suggested we all touch it. I must admit...Feeling is believing. (see photo above in right hand corner)   

2:30PM—Winery Dinner Excursions--

Pick a bus any bus. Spin the big wheel--where you go nobody knows…or do they?

Picking the right bus is essential to a good WBC experience, so I don’t leave things to chance. Instead I employ the ancient method of dowsing to locate the correct bus. This method entails holding a corkscrew lightly in the hands and walking up and down the bus aisle. When the spiral, aka the worm, dips down it portends that bus is a great choice. I get on several buses and don’t feel the vibe, until finally my wine-witching-sixth-sense tells me BUS 8 is the ONE! My corkscrew dowsing method did not fail. I was on BUS 8 bound for the Carlton Extravaganza!!

While much has been tweeted about our ‘bus bust’ in Carlton you really had to be there to see the Academy Award worthy performance by Officer GoodBody, er, I mean Officer Martinez from the Carlton Police department. He definitely spooked some folks from California that rushed to the on board bathroom to dispense of their “medicine”. You Carlton folks better keep your eye on Office Martinez—Hollywood may come calling for him –Wine it does a body good!

Our first stop after the arrest was at Carlo and Julian a boutique winery making lovely Spanish inspired wines like Albariño and Tempranillo. We tried the Albariño with red tuna cervichi and edible nasturtiums. Afterwards we took a short walk through the vineyards and up to the tree of life for more wine and edibles. It was a magical setting despite the heat.

Next a geology lesson on the area and what makes the wine great with Ken Wright of Ken Wright Cellars. We tasted a vertical from the Sayovna vineyard, but it was a bit too hot to capture their true essence.

Then we took a short stroll down main street to The Horse Radish restaurant that had been transformed into a showcase of Carlton wine and food. A buffet style feast was served in one section of the space and the local winemakers set up along the perimeter of the room with their wines. We sat at long tables decorated with colorful planters down the center. 

We received a most hilarious program complete with Officer Goodbody on the cover that described the food and which wines to pair with each. The menu was so extensive including Chinook salmon, duck confit salad, pork loin, braised short ribs, grilled flank steak, and fabulous desserts that deserve their own post. 

The standout of the evening for me was the Chinook salmon prepared in the authentic Salish style baked over an open fire on alderwood racks. A new word needs to be invented to describe this type of taste sensation. Perhaps--Yumincredibleiousious. 

So much goodness under one roof – I felt like I was at a family wedding without all the annoying relatives. Just pure enjoyment. And I do believe that the Carlton dinner was hands down the best meal of the entire WBC. It was a sensory overload of the highest order. An incredible effort by the Carlton folks and it felt like they too were having a great time. I may just have to buy a second home there.  

Some of my fave wines of the night:
2010 Seven of Hearts GSM

2009 K&M Alchemy Cuvee Pinot Noir
2007 Cliff Creek Cellars Cab Franc

2005 SpofFord Station Estate Syrah
2010 Ghost Hill Pinot Noir Blanc
2011 Omero Pinot Gris
2010 Alexana Revana Vineyard Riesling

As we left the dinner we were handed gift bags with some swell swag including samples from Republic of Jam and truffles from Honest Chocolate.

9:30 PM—Night of Way Too Many Bottles

I loved the idea of Night of Many Bottles in concept and I bet it looked great on paper, but in reality this was waaaayyy too many bottles in a room much too small to accommodate it.

11:30
A pop-up Bubble Lounge near the lobby. This was great and unexpected pleasure.

Midnight and Beyond: After Parties—

Oh did I mention I had work to do? …Yeah right….

After visiting several parties I call it a night. I get though 9 pages of the 280 page manuscript. At 2:30 AM I look at twitter and see things are still going strong, but I resist the urge to go back out and struggle to edit 10 more pages before crashing.  Final tally for the night in terms of attention span--
WBC: 1 Manuscript: 0

SATURDAY June 18^th 

Notes from a Wine Blogger on the Edge

Best session of the day was Off the Beaten Path Varietals AKA the GPS of Wines. This was a great blind tasting of many grapes I’ve never heard of. Pictured above: the best ‘narrative’ tasting notes of the conference by Mattie Bamman. Oh the joy and despair of wine tasting.

11:45 AM
I meet with the Girls Gone Wild contingent from Okanagan to run though my slides for Sundays presentation.

3:45 PM— Rex Pickett

Well depending on who you ask, Rex was a screaming success, or an utter flop. Tough crowd for Rex. But word on twitter is that he will head to Chile soon to research and start working on Part III of the Sideways trilogy. Hmm, wonder if the Malbec board coaxed him there to work the same magic on Malbec as he did for Pinot? What do you think the third book will be called? After Sideways, there was Vertical. Now what? Possibly “Corked!” Or “Fermented?” We’ll just have to wait and see.

4:30 PM—Red Wine Live Blogging

Some one spilled wine all over my notes for this session, so missing the details. This is a dangerous event if you have a laptop on the table or any device that should not get wet. Luckily it was just my paper notebook.

5:30 PM—New Wines of Greece

Loved the wines of Greece and their unpronounceable names-- the phonetic signs were very helpful. How to you say crisp, fresh, and delicious in Greek?

7:00PM—King Estate Winery Dinner

There was tremendous buzz leading up to this event and maybe that set my expectations too high. I felt there were a few glitches in what could have been a spectacular dinner, but it’s an enormous undertaking to serve over 350 people at once. Hats off to them for the effort. But I wish I’d gone with Michael Wangbickler who was tweeting about the great time he was having out in greater PDX.

9:00 PM—International Wine Night

The Le Cognac cocktail table was doing a brisk trade, but I found the Languedoc wines, wines of Alsace, and wines of Italy had the best offerings. Although in all honesty I did not get to many tables as the room was so crowded. 

12:00 AM -- After Party Scene

The Jordan, Chehalem, and Dundee Hills suites were all rocking.

Memorable Moment:  Standing in the glass elevator with @Consciouswine @ravenoustravelr @SFDoug chatting away and waiting for the elevator to move. Then we realized one must actually push a button! Push the Button! How come the Chemical Brothers are never singing Galvanize when you really need them??

I tried to make it an early night since I had a rehearsal with our friends from Okanagan at 8:30 AM – {Note to self: Don’t agree to anything that early again.} I followed some of the party tweets on twitter before I turn out the lights.

When I finally fell asleep I dreamt someone slid a whole pizza under my door with olives and anchovies spelling out WBC. So weird. During the day I drank so much water I knocked my electrolytes out of whack. I think the dream was my subconscious telling me I needed salt. 

SUNDAY June 19^th 

7:30 AM
Am I really up? I drag myself downstairs get some coffee and rehearse the WBC13 presentation.

10:30 AM 

Ignite presentations – these were surprisingly good. I congratulate those brave enough to participate in front of the oft fickle and sometimes ultra critical WBC audience. But all were well received.

11:15 AM—WBC13 Announcement OKANAGAN!!

Despite tripping up the stairs leading to the podium, I managed to deliver my Top Ten Reason You Should Go TO WBC13 presentation without a hitch.

1:00 PM --Over and Out
Just as quickly as it started WBC12 was over. There was a rush of hugs and goodbyes and then a small group of us were whisked on to the Blitz Bus and back to my new favorite place on the planet—Carlton!! #BlitzCarlton 

My next post will detail my stay in Carlton and all it’s wonders.

See you all in Okanagan for WBC13. I already registered! Have you? Better get your spot secured, because if you miss WBC13 in Okanagan… as I said in my presentation… you’re an idiot.  

Messina Hof -- Deep in the Heart of Texas Wine

Paul Bonarrigo, center, flanked by Harvest guests at Messina Hof

In early August I attended a Harvest event as the guest of Paul and Merrill Bonarrigo at the Messina Hof Winery & Resort in Bryan, Texas.  I had some ideas about what Texas is all about.  Even worse, I had ideas about Texas wine, before I’d even tried it. But Whoa Nelly! My whole preconceived notion of Texas and Texas wine was blown double barrel style out of the water during my visit.

First thing to note: Texas in August—um, not for you delicate types or the heat stroke prone. But once I adjusted to the blast furnace effect as you step outside, it was quite tolerable, and of course all of the main buildings were blissfully air-conditioned.

Harvest Weekend--

Every year Messina Hof holds five harvest weekends where the wine club members and the general public come for a day long event of food, fun, and wine wrapped around a hands-on harvest. Feet-on harvest too, as part of the experience includes a romp in the bin a la Lucy Ricardo. There’s even a contest for that.

I’ve worked real harvests before {see here}  – and when I say “real harvest” I mean without all the accoutrements of a gentleman’s style deluxe harvest like the one I attended at Gloria Ferrer-- so I know a bit of what’s involved when it come to harvest—gentlemanly style or not. The bottom line is they can be very educational. But no matter how long you are in the vines, it is true physical work, and it’s good to get an understanding of that. Plus I find it’s always a thrill to see the grapes up close on the vine, handle them, feel their heft and of course taste them in their natural habitat.

The atmosphere at Messina Hof harvest was positively carnival like. Music was blasting down the vines as the guests scurried about filling their bins like kids at Halloween. There was a general buzz of joy as people cut the grapes keeping an eye out for the most interesting grape cluster, for which there was a prize.

Harvest at Messina Hof is big news

I met one guest who hadn’t missed a harvest in five years! People come again and again with their families and friends.  I’ve never seen anything like it. And in the center of it all was Paul Bonarrigo – Winemaker, CEO and Master of Ceremonies. Paul not only rallied the harvest troops-- he posed in his signature red cap for photos with guests, kissed babies, gave his blessing to an newly engaged couple, and kept spirits high. If not for the setting, one might think it was a political rally, with Paul greeting his admiring constituents. It’s that kind of atmosphere.

Merrill Bonarrigo working at harvest

Merrill Bonarrigo plays a crucial role too as co-owner, COO, Mom in Chief and Executive Hospitality Officer. Despite the scope and size of Messina Hof, it is 100% a family run operation. The next generation, Paul VII, (the son of Paul VI and Merrill) is working along side with his wife Karen. And their daughter Sophia Marie (already a savvy social media expert) and the newborn Paul VIII, are waiting in the wings, ready to carry the tradition and heritage of the Messina Hof empire long into the future.

Paul VII, Karen, Paul VIII and Sophia Marie tweeting on the iPhone

The next generation of family winemakers

The overriding philosophy of Messina Hof is family.  Family and respect for their customers is the cornerstone of the entire operation, and no amount of PR hype can fake the genuine enthusiasm and love guests have for Papa Paul and Merrill—the King and Queen of Texas size hospitality.

Mama Rosa

Even Paul’s mother is an active part of the operation.  She can often be found in the tasting room pouring her signature wine Mama Rosa Rose. I sat next to Mama Rosa at the Harvest dinner and I promised I would not reveal the details, but Mama Rosa and I are plotting a get away to Vegas. Shhhh.

My biggest impression from the weekend was how engaged their customers are in all the myriad of activities that take place at the winery. I know what some of you may be thinking, that perhaps Texas is not the most sophisticated wine market. But you would be so very, very wrong.  The Messina Hof guests are well traveled, well read, people from all walks of life, in all professions, and they know their wines. I met professors from nearby A&M University who had recently dined at the French Laundry in Napa, and had a fabulous conversation with a young woman about her favorite food magazine—Lucky Peach! It does not get any more non-stereotypical than that. But perhaps the whole Texas stereotype thing was in my own head, for everything I experienced defied my expectations. I attribute this attitude to the oath we take in California to believe we are the end all be all, but alas that’s not really true. ( I hope I don’t get booted out of the state for saying that!)

The Wines

Yes, Messina Hof does make over 80 wines!!! Yikes...but it’s all in the pursuit of pleasing the customers. It’s true, they make a White Zin—hey, the peeps want what they want—but they also make a Primitivo Cerro Santo Vineyard one of the nicest Primitivo’s I’ve ever had.

It’s hot and dry in Texas and some of the best selections I tried according to my palate were the Angel Late Harvest Riesling Merrill’s Vineyard, the Mistella Glory Late Harvest Muscat Canelli, the Muscato Tribute to Innocence, and the ethereal Solera Texas Sherry -- but while the sheer depth and breadth of the Messina Hof program is daunting—the truth is there are many fine wines in them thar Texas hills.

Also of note the Paulo Port, Cab Franc and Merlot.

The Villa Bed and Breakfast

I first met Merrill and Paul in Portugal at the International Wine Tourism Conference and spent time with them in Italy this year as part of the same event.  So the harvest weekend was also part of a mini-reunion for members of the blogger trip in Italy this past February. Melba Allen, Jennifer Waters and Tom Plant were part of our reunion group. We all stayed onsite at the Villa Bed &Breakfast. 

Reunion in Texas:  Tom Plant, Melba Allen, Me, Paul Bonarrigo, Jennifer Waters, & Merrill Bonarrigo

Each room is decorated with a different theme and filled with European antiques. I had the privilege of staying in the Hof suite dedicated to Merrill’s family history and I loved seeing the family resemblance of Merrill, and her granddaughter Sophia Marie, in the portraits of Merrill’s ancestors.

The Hof generations 

Paul and Merrill recently opened Messina Hof Hill Country a new resort in Fredericksburg that features a wine garten, onsite tasting room and private cottages called the Manor Haus B & B.

Vintage House Restaurant

My first night I dined with Merrill and Paul in the Vintage House restaurant which doubles as their barrel room for the winery. The atmosphere was wonderful and the food exceptional. This was truly fine dining; with a seasonal menu and a “secret recipe” Paulo Legend Salad prepared tableside. Many of the dishes are created with ingredients from the garden just steps outside the door.

Sicilian feast--Deep in the Heart of Cannoli

At a small private dinner in the Vintage Room restaurant on our final night, we reminisced about our travels together over a Sicilian feast prepared by the Vintage House chef.  My family is Sicilian and I can attest the food was authentic. Paul shared some of his library wines at the dinner and the Merlot was a stunner.

I'd like to thank Paul and Merrill, their family and staff, for all their hospitality. And I think someone needs to rewrite the lyrics to the song Deep in the Heart of Texas to mention Messina Hof-- because it's there at Messina Hof, through Paul and Merrill, that the heart beats strong and true for the love of wine & family. 

DETAILS:

Mesinna Hof Winery and Resort

www.messinahof.com

(979) 778-9463 

Vintage House Resturant

Villa B&B

The Wines 

Wines mentioned above: 

Primitivo Cerro Santo Vineyard

Angel Late Harvest Riesling Merrill’s Vineyard

Mistella Glory Late Harvest Muscat Canelli

Muscato Tribute to Innocence

Solera Texas Sherry

Paulo Port

Cab Franc  

Merlot