Come for the Wine: tasting

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Tuesday, August 23, 2022

Varietal of the Month: Barbera

Barbera is one of Italy’s five most planted grapes and the fifteenth most planted varietal in the world. In California, Barbera is characterized by high acidity and fruity exuberance with medium tannins and a spicy finish. A charming and quaffable varietal, Barbera pairs well with fatty fare that serves to balance the buoyant acidity.

Here are capsule reviews of Barbera you may find along the Wine Road.

Amphora 2015 Barbera Clarksburg, Heringer Vineyard

The 2015 Amphora Barbera from Clarksburg AVA in Amador County is dark and savory with a fresh floral nose of violets, and spicy note of fennel bulb. On the palate a dance of licorice, black fruits and blueberry jam, with a smooth plum finish. At first sip it reminded me of Cab Franc, but quickly opened into its full Barbera expression with bright acidity and medium tannins that deliver a mouthful of deep lip smacking flavor. Pair with Ragu alla bolgnese over egg noodles.

ABV 13.7%

$35

Colagrossi 2019 Barbera, Pauli Ranch, Mendocino

When I was a kid there was a commercial with the line “Mamma Mia, that’s one spicy meatball.” This 2019 Colagrossi Barbera, Pauli Ranch, Mendocino made me exclaim “Mamma Mia that’s one spicy Barbera!” From start to finish it exudes plucky acidity with good tannin structure and savory rich flavors that open with plum and licorice and then develop further to reveal notes of mocha, tobacco, blackberry and fruitcake—like a classic pannetone. It glides to a long spicy finish with a hint of juicy sour cherry. Pair with cheesy sausage and pepper pizza.

ABV 14.7%

$40

deLorimier 2018 Barbera, Dry Creek Valley

Right out of the gate, the deLorimier 2018 Barbera will capture your attention and captivate your palate with vivid flavors and taut grippy tannins. As the tannins soften they dovetail with the bright acidity to deliver a smooth Sen–Sen like flavor profile with a profusion of licorice, vanilla, lavender and luscious blackberry. Bright, balanced and enjoyable sip after sip. Pair with Eggplant Parmigiana.

ABV 15.6%

$46

Peterson 2018 Barbera Tollini Vineyard, Mendocino

The Peterson 2018 Barbera from Tollini Vineyard, Mendocino is lively, fruity and fresh with notes of cherry, mulberry and chaparral on the nose. Flavors of plum and blackberry slowly build and gather momentum as they race across the palate and stick the landing with a long spicy finish. Bright and bouncy, pair this Barbera with something creamy and earthy like truffle mac and cheese.

ABV 13.9%

$24

Portalupi 2020 Barbera Shake Ridge Ranch, Amador County

The Portalupi 2020 Barbera is grown in Amador County, a hot spot for Barbera that hosts an annual festival in celebration of the grape. On the nose you’ll find scents of cherry, violets and strawberry. On the palate it springs to life with vivid acidity and lush notes of blackberry and black cherry. Secondary flavors of plum, mocha, vanilla, spicy fig and licorice coalesce with a spicy finish supported by supple tannins. Pair with a simple charcuterie plate of salami and creamy rich cheeses.

ABV 14.8%

$48

Ramazzotti 2019 Barbera Dry Creek Valley

The Ramazzotti 2019 Barbera, from Dry Creek Valley, has an enchanting nose of vanilla and mocha reminiscent of the dust at the end of a box of Count Chocula cereal—soft and wonderful! On the palate it has all the earmarks of classic Italian style Barbera with great acidity and loads of licorice, black plum, strawberry, cherry, and an earthy note of tobacco. The initial grippy tannins mellow with time in glass. Easy to love and fun to drink, pair with a creamy mushroom risotto.

ABV 14.5%

$46

Seghesio Family Vineyards 2019 Barbera, Home Ranch Vineyard, Alexander Valley

The Seghesio 2019 Barbera from Alexander Valley is pert and alive with an aromatic nose of cherry, lavender and strawberry. A fresh purity of flavor predominates across the palate with notes of vanilla, nutmeg, plum, blackberry, and dried strawberry. Juicy and bright it has a persistent oomph and grip with medium tannins, high acidity and a long spicy finish. Pair with classic Spaghetti and Meatballs or Chicken Cacciatore.

ABV 15.2%

$45

Carol Shelton 2021 Barbera D’ Oakley, Planchon Vineyard, Contra Costa County

Harvested from the 130-year-old Planchon Vineyard, this 2021 Carole Shelton Barbera D’ Oakley is blended along with vineyard mates, Zinfandel and Merlot. The nose is a soft bouquet of mocha, dusty blackberry, nutmeg and earthy tobacco. Tart and bright with zingy acidity it’s flush with flavors of black and red cherry, plum, licorice, leather and black pepper. The tannins transform from grippy to silky with a long spicy finish. Enjoy with pumpkin sage ravioli.

ABV 13.8%

Taddei Wines 2018 Barbera Pauli Ranch Mendocino

The Taddei Wines 2018 Barbera from Pauli Ranch, Mendocino has a nose comprised of licorice, black pepper, cherry, plum, blackberry pie and vanilla with a touch of clove that makes me think of Chowards’ Violet Scented Gum. On the palate notes of prune, plum, iris, mocha, violets, spicy carnation and a pleasing note of minty graphite, much like garrigue. Great overall balance and tannin structure with a light grip and long finish of spicy-herbal-menthol-cherry, (think Ricola) that is quite delicious and intriguing.

ABV 14.8%

$45

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Croatia Series Part 1: Bibich Dégustation

As my series on Croatia begins, I think might as well start at the top. There were many extraordinary experiences in Croatia, but the visit to Bibich was what I was most excited about beforehand. I’d already been introduced to a few of their wines by Frank Dietrich of Blue Danbue Wines during the Wines of Croatia tasting I held at my house back in August and was really looking forward to tasting more of the Bibich wines in Croatia. One clarification to avoid confusion:– Babić is the grape name while Bibich is the winemaker.

Press trips by their nature are very jam packed and tightly scheduled, and there was much to see and do before Bibich time, including a walking tour of Šibenik, a exquisite seafood lunch at Konoba Dalmation (more about that to come) and a visit to Krka National Park to view the waterfalls. The only problem was I’d had little to no sleep the first two nights and now was running on fumes and sheer willpower to stand upright by our third very packed day. But I willed my self to carry-on and kept reminding my self, this was the day we would visit Bibich. By 5 pm my strength was waning but just seeing the sign for Bibich perked me up. We were greeted at the door and whisked inside the cozy space where Alen Bibić gave us the background on the 500 year history of the vines and winery and it’s operation.

Next we sat at a small table and the eight wine & seven course Dégustation began:

Pairing # 1 Bibich Brut Sparkling wine / Oysters 2 ways: Raw Oysters and Oysters with Lemon ice and Worchester Foam. I never even got to taste the lemon ice ones! My fellow (ravenous) writers jumped all over them before I got the chance.

Pairing # 2 Debit 2010 / Cucumber sorbet topped with trout caviar. Granita of smoked trout. The Debit was dry and lively with a mineral chalky quality and nose of flowers granite dust. The cucumber sorbet was an unexpected flavor sensation but it really made the Debit come alive.

Pairing # 3 R5 Riserva 2008 a blend of Debit, Pošip, Maraština, Pinot Grigio, and Chardonnay –all the flavors in harmony. Paired with Sea bass tartar w/ olive oil, pepper, chili, and an orange roof. Just as this dish was served my phone died and I frantically looked for an outlet to recharge. So no photo. Sorry! UPDATE: I recently discovered photos of the Sea Bass tartar with orange roof and several more of the other pairings on my digital camera click here to view them.

Pairing #4 Lučica 100% Debit / Scallops grilled with goat cheese & black sesame seeds. The Lučica is very special limited production wine from vines close to 50 years old. Lovely rich flavors 13% alc. I was very captivated by the Lučica--
To the Eye: Golden amber color.
On the Nose: A rush of apple and apricot with a light honeysuckle and violet perfume.
On the Palate: Bright and smooth. Flavors of granite/limestone and vanilla with a touch of caramel.
In the Ear: A chorus of Angels!

Pairing #5 – Riserva R6 2008/ Cuttlefish pasta balsamic reduction and olive oil dust. The R6, a favorite of mine, is a blend of Plavic, Lasin and Babić with a floral rosy vanilla nose and full rich flavors. The pairing dish was a play on black and white, a deconstructed take on cuttlefish as a pasta with paski (cheese) cream, almonds, and a reduction of balsamic vinegar with olive oil dust. Deconstructed and delicious! This dish discombobulated me. I was no longer responsible for my actions. I was fully under the Bibich spell.

Pairing #6 – Wine 1- Sangreal Merlot 2007/ Lamb Filet with hazel nut, chili oil and Mediterranean spice “glass top” brittle / Wine 2- Bas de Bas 2007-- The luscious Sangreal Merlot is very limited production. I suggest you try to get some. The Bas de Bas was a Crno Syrah oakey notes on the nose and palate and a deep ruby color.

Pairing #7 Ambra / Baked Chocolate Mousse and Cream Catuluna. Ambra Debit 100% had awesome fig and apricot flavors.

I loved all the wines, but the Lučica was the one I was most enthralled with. One in our group (I’m looking at you KL) had the presence of mind to buy some Lučica. But I was so completely wrapped up in the reverie of the moment and in such a blissed out state I barely remember leaving under my own locomotion. I slept that night for the first time in two days and sweet dreams of Bibich danced in my head.

Above: Me flanked by the cherubic faced Sime (right) and the slightly Faustian Alen (left)

The cozy unpretentious setting belies the world-class wine and food at Bibich. If not for the goofy red and white checkered tablecloths, which gives the place a slightly tourist feel, one might mistake it for the weigh station to heaven--wine pairing heaven that is. Soon the world will know of Bibich, as Anthony Bourdain was scheduled to stop by the next day. But up until then it was ours alone.

Bibich is located outside of Sibenik in Skradin. Do what you must to get there. It’s well worth the effort.

Links to all Croatia Series Posts:

Croatia Series Preview

Croatia Part 1: Bibich Dégustation

Croatia Part 2: The Splendors of Split

Croatia Part 3- Šibenik Caressed by the Sea

Croatia Part 4- Zadar, The Perfect Date

Croatia Part 5 - Pilgrimage to Pag: Land of Paški Sir

Croatia Part 6 - Istria--Truffles, Olive Oil, Prosciutto & Wine!
Eli's Caffé in Zagreb--Wake Up and Smell the Coffee

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Croatia Series Preview: Zivili!

I'm back from Croatia and my head is spinning with all the amazing food and wine I experienced and the fabulous people I met. Before I even left the twitter support from the Croatian wine and food community was incredible. Special thanks to the Croatian Tourist Board for making the trip possible and also to:

@TasteofCroatia , @EatDalmatia , @PaskiSir , @PASKASIRANA, Cliff Rames @WinesofCroatia , Pacta Connect @pc_wines , Sasha Burekovic @TastyWineCo , Lada Radin @ladara and of course
Frank at @BlueDanubeWine for reaching out to me with tips and suggestions.

I'm currently sorting through a pile of maps, notes, photos and videos as I prepare a series of posts dedicated to Croatia and the stories of the people who make it unique. -- So stay tuned for a wild romp though one of the most dynamic wine and food regions I've ever visited. In the meantime here is sneak peek of what's to come --