Chardonnay: Varietal of the Month

Chardonnay is planted widely around the world.  It’s sometimes called the chameleon grape given its propensity to display characteristics that reflect the particular climate and region where it’s grown. It can be coy or bold in personality and run the gamut stylistically from rich and creamy to lean and lithe. Hone your palate by tasting a variety of styles and experiment with food parings too to discover the many aspects of Chardonnay.

 Here are capsule reviews of some Chardonnay’s you may find along the Wine Road.

 

Baldassari 2019 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast

 

The 2019 Baldassari Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast opens with an array of aromas from bright to savory with notes of citrus, apple, melon, butterscotch and hazelnut. It’s juicy and creamy on the palate with delicate buttery top note and a tropical fruit through line of intense flavor that carries it to a satisfying finish. This classic wine aches for a simple yet classic snack—pop up a big bowl of popcorn and season with truffle salt.

 

ABV 14.2%

$ 

Cast 2021 Chardonnay, Ghianda Rose Vineyard, Mendocino

 

The 2021 Cast Ghianda Rose Vineyard, Chardonnay from Mendocino offers a frisson of flavor with a distinct zing that makes me think of Chenin. The lovely light nose is full of cucumber, lemon zest, and melon. On the palate it’s juicy with ripe peach, crisp apple, pineapple, white nectarine and a savory note of hazelnut. Balanced and bright, it has a long creamy finish with a pop of red grapefruit and lemon zest that persists to the end. Try this with spicy beef or chicken empanadas. 

 

ABV 13.5 %

$38

 

Dutton Estate 2020 Chardonnay Warrens Collection, RRV

 

An earthly delight, the 2020 Dutton Estate Warrens Collection Chardonnay from Russian River Valley is complex and delicious. On the nose, aromas of melon, mango, yellow apple and a grounding note of coriander. The palate is creamy and pert with luscious caramelized pineapple, lemon zest, white peach, and a trace of salty almond. A long seamless finish deepens with each sip. Pair with a classic roast chicken and extra cheesy potatoes au gratin.

 

ABV 14.1%

$56

 

Ektimo 2018 Chardonnay RRV

 

Inhale deeply from the Ektimo 2018 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley for a rush of scents from lemon curd, grapefruit, and apricot to an exciting floral bouquet comprised of citrus and apple blossoms. On the palate a pleasing blend of apple white nectarine, almond brittle and a creamy finish with notes of pear and honeydew melon. Great overall balance and lift of flavor. Pair with something elegant, rich and savory, like poached salmon with hollandaise. 

 

ABV 13.0%

$28

The Meeker Vineyard 2021 Gamboge Chardonnay, North Coast

 

The Meeker Vineyard 2021 Gamboge Chardonnay from the North Coast, is best described as full of moxie and style. The wine presents with an energetic mix of flavors and aromas that is nothing short of thrilling. On the nose, persimmon, chalk, buttery croissant, honey almond and gooseberry. The palate is rich with notes of peach, nectarine and almond butter which gives the mid palate a pleasing weight and presence. The long tangy finish has an endnote of cedar and crushed rocks. It sounds like a there’s a lot going from this tasting note, but it’s truly a harmonic convergence of flavor and nuance. Pair chicken enchiladas.  

 

ABV 12.9%

$29

 

Pedroncelli 2021 Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley

 

The Pedroncelli Signature Selection, 2021 Chardonnay, from Dry Creek Valley is light and balanced and thoroughly enjoyable. On the nose, tropical notes of banana, coconut, cream, and peaches with a touch of sweet pineapple. The juicy palate has both bright and plush aspects– creamsicle like, with notes of peach, ginger, chalk and a note that hovers at mid-palate which is reminiscent of coconut cream pie. The finish is crisp, clean, tangy and ultimately quenching. Pair with charcuterie board of meats and cheeses along with good crusty bread, and invite some good friends over to enjoy it all. 

 

ABV 14.0%

$20

 

Sonoma Jones 2019 Chardonnay RRV

 

This 2019 Sonoma Jones Chardonnay from Russian River Valley is a second label entry from Viszlay Vineyards that pays homage to the Jones side of the family. It has pleasing rich aromas of creamy peach, Asian pear and toasty brioche. On the palate it’s lifted and bright with notes of grapefruit and lemon curd and crème brulee. As it opens and warms in the glass, it reveals a distinct note of caramelized peanuts that reminded me of an exotic old school treat called French Burnt Peanuts, crunchy red clusters of buttery delight! Balanced and easy drinking, pair with a spicy chicken jambalaya.

 

ABV 14.4%

$38

Woodenhead 2019 Chardonnay Piper Ranch Manchester Ridge, Mendocino Ridge AVA

 

This 2019 Woodenhead Chardonnay from Piper Ranch, Manchester Ridge in Mendocino is best described as Rubenesque —plump, carnal, fleshy and full of light. 

A gorgeous scent fills the glass with notes of ambrosia that includes coconut, melon, banana, mandarin and a whiff of butterscotch. On the palate, full lush flavors of lemon curd, white peach, guava, vanilla, and caramel flan. Deeply delicious it’s a captivating foray into what a site specific Chardonnay can deliver. Pair with Psychic Pie inspired mushroom, goat cheese, lemon pizza. 

 

ABV 13.6%

$46

Chardonnay: Varietal of the Month

Chardonnay is one of the world’s most planted white grapes. Its many styles, oaked and unoaked, make it a versatile choice for a variety of pairings. Chardonnay is typically full to medium in body and acidity with low to no tannins. From bold and rich, to lean and lithe it’s guaranteed you’ll find a Chardonnay to suit your palate.

Here are capsule reviews of Chardonnay’s you’ll find along the Wine Road.

Bowman 2018 Chardonnay Russian River Valley 

On the nose the 2018 Bowman Chardonnay has an unmistakable scent of buttered popcorn that opens up to aromas of fresh baked bread, coconut and an intriguing chalky-peach note. Steady acidity carries the lush flavors of gooseberry, vanilla, apple, straw and tomato leaf to the finish. Pair with something rich such as a lobster risotto.

Chalk Hill 2016 Chardonnay Estate Bottled, Chalk HillAppellation, Russian River Valley

Focused and polished, the 2016 Chalk Hill Chardonnay is full-bodied and appealing on many levels from start to finish. Rich scents of vanilla, baked apples, and orange blossom lead seamlessly to a lush mouthful of creamy peach and caramelized pineapple. Beautiful balance of fruit and acid shapes this Chardonnay into an instant classic with good aging potential. Indulge with high-low pairing of potato chips and caviar with dollop of crème fraîche.

Dutton Estate 2015 Chardonnay, Kyndall’s Reserve – DuttonRanch, Russian River Valley  

Bright yellow-gold in color, the 2015 Dutton Estate Kyndall’s Reserve Chardonnay is buoyant with aromas of lemon, peach and vanilla butter cream. Upon opening, the flavors continually shift and change, it’s like a DJ scratching a record back and forth and then—BOOM, the groove drops and everything falls in to place. Rich, full, and satisfying it offers a seamless connection between the fruit and acid with a medley of apple, bosc pear, and zesty lemon on the palate. Pair with crab cakes.

Gary Farrell 2017 Chardonnay Russian River Valley, Sonoma 

Straw pale yellow in color, the 2017 Gary Farrell Chardonnay, Russian River Valley is bursting with an intoxicating array of scents from citrus blossoms, jasmine and lilac to creamy white peach. Structured and balanced with great vibrancy, the initial flavors offer bright zesty lime and tropical notes, followed by a soft finish grounded with rich notes of piecrust and crème brulee. Pair with truffle popcorn! A classic deserves a classic.

Jigar 2015 Chardonnay Peters Vineyard, Russian River Valley,Sonoma

I’ve always liked Chardonnay, but I do admit I’ve ignored its charms over the past few years. Recently my love for the grape was rekindled by this 2015 Jigar Chardonnay from Peters Vineyard in Russian River Valley. It’s a delightful balance of earthy dried apple and spicy carnation on the nose with a lift of lemon curd and creamy peach on the palate and a pop of acidity on the finish. Nice body with a touch of oak that minds it P’s and Q’s. It definitely punches up in its weight class.

Paradise Ridge 2016 Chardonnay, Bazzano Vineyard, Russian River Valley 

In the glass the 2016 Paradise Ridge Chardonnay, Bazzano Vineyard, Russian River Valley glows pale yellow with a slight tinge of green at the edge. Bright, clean and lean the aromas are fresh and fruity bursting with green apple, a touch of lanolin and a lovely lingering white floral scent. White peach flavor predominates at the start, and then segues into honeydew with a light lime finish. Pair with a Croque Monsieur (grilled ham and cheese) or Croque Madame, which is essentially the same as Monsieur sandwich but with an egg sunny side up, on top.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay Home Ranch DryCreek Valley, Sonoma

Gosh this is a nice Chardonnay! Pale straw yellow in the glass, the 2018 Sbragia Chardonnay, Home Ranch Dry Creek Valley presents with butter and vanilla on the nose initially, then gives way to bright notes of lime and mandarin. Full bodied with creamy flavors of white peach, honey, citrus, green apple and tropical fruits make this a pleasant journey from start to finish. Enjoy on it’s own or break out the Brie and crackers for a simple pairing.

Zialena 2017 Chardonnay, Sonoma County 

Lizzo would like this Juice! Bright, rich and plush, with texture in all the right places the 2017 Zialena Chardonnay exhibits the earmarks of a classic. It’s fresh and zesty with flavors of tropical citrus and ripe nectarine, and balanced with notes of toasty marshmallow and butterscotch. Pair with eggplant caponata. 

(Ya-ya-ee, ya-ya-ee….)

This post was first published on Along the Wine Road blog here:
https://www.alongthewineroad.com/chardonnay-varietal-of-the-month/

Groking La Follette's Manchester Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay

I first tried winemaker Greg La Follette’s wine under the Tandem label at the 2009 Wine Bloggers Conference speed tasting. Say what you will about the merits of the speed tasting rounds, but it does serve to set in your mind wines that are very good or “very not so good”. The Manchester Ridge was in the very, very, very good category and I kept thinking about it for days afterwards. It was one of the most enjoyable and surprising Chardonnays I’d ever had.

Next thing I know, I got a bottle of Tandem Pinot Noir in my Quivira club shipment and it sparked me to learn more. Tandem wines was started in 2001 by Greg La Follette and then purchased by Quivira in 2009. Subsequently in 2010, Quivira owner Pete Knight made the great decision (in my opinion) to roll out Tandem into the new brand La Follette.

After that initial WBC tasting in 2009, I bought a case of the Tandem Manchester Ridge Chardonnay and a case of Tandem Sangiacomo Pinot for a Christmas party I was having. It’s funny how a lot of people say they don’t drink Chardonnay. But what’s more interesting, is my friends who say the opposite, “I don’t drink red wine!” (Hmmm… I know what some of you are thinking -- get rid of those friends, but hey, it was Christmas time.)  Plus I have friends from all walks of life the majority of whom are not wine bloggers, merely casual wine drinkers, and I have somehow become their go to person for recommending wines and helping them expand their wine horizons. I’m no expert, I’m just a diligent explorer and always looking to share something I think is great.  So when I have parties I try to have something different on hand they will enjoy.

I set out both wines at the party and watched people’s reactions. You know a wine has someone’s attention when they try it and then they go pick the bottle up again and say “Wow who makes this Chardonnay?” Or my favorite line “This is Chardonnay? I don’t drink Chardonnay. Where did you get this?” (Oh how quickly our tightly held convictions crumble in the face of a great wine!)

Days later I had people calling to thank me for the party and ask about the wine. “Can you tell me again that name of the wine you served? It was so good.”  No surprise that it was the die-hard ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) red wine aficionados that went gaga over the La Follette. Mission accomplished.

Recently I was sent a sample of the Manchester Ridge Chardonnay under the new La Follette label-- and it’s as amazing as ever. So balanced and bright, with crisp apple and pineapple notes. It’s creamy without the dull thud on the palate some Chards can deliver. 

Maybe La Follette Chardonnay should be called “Beyond Chardonnay” as I think it’s in a class all it’s own. Even the Manchester Vineyard is out on it’s own. If you look at a map the vineyard for Manchester ridge is located way north of Sonoma on the Mendocino Ridge AVA. It’s high elevation and cool coastal temperatures is not a typical growing area for Chardonnay. But that is perfectly in line with the winemaker’s philosophy of crafting wines from outside of so-called “safe growing” zones.

As I learn more about wine I realize the multitude of facets there are to every part of the process from growing to bottling. It’s a vast knowledge base. And I admit, my goal is not to become a student of winemaking, just a better educated consumer. But when you find a wine that really sparks your interest, it’s through its graces that you are led deeper down the path to understanding it. Or as I like to say Grok it! (For those of you unfamiliar with this term, it’s from Heinlein’s Stranger in a Strange Land; it means to so fully understand something in its essence that you practically become it.)  I like to experience wines from all over the planet and love discovering new favorites, mostly I drink and enjoy them in the moment. But with La Follette I want more. I really want to grok Greg’s wines. And I will stay on that path for as long as full grokdom takes.

So now you can find and enjoy Greg's wines under his eponymous brand La Follette. Visit the La Follette website for more in depth information on winemaker Greg La Follette and the “vineyard-designate” Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from the vineyards of Lorenzo in Russian River Valley, Manchester Ridge, van der Kamp, and Sangiacomo.

La Follette also makes stunning Pinot Noir’s as well and I’ll address those at a later date, as this post is for Chardonnay day. 

Opulence? JCB Hez It! -- A Visit to Raymond Vineyards in Napa Valley

The wine revolution will not be televised—it will be shown live at Raymond Vineyards. And it’s going to be quite a show. Things are different here. Owner Jean-Charles Boisset has taken the venerable Raymond vineyards and sprinkled pixie dust all over. Boisset is the mastermind and ringmaster for some evolutionary new ideas in the experience of wine. But don’t let the wow factor fool you. There is some serious good wine here along with all the glamour and glitz. 

On Saturday May 14th I visited the Raymond Vineyards with a group of bloggers and wine writers and it was unlike any winery visit I’ve ever experienced before. It was a three-ring circus of wine, creativity, and decadence. 

Ring 1 –Tank Room and Crystal Cellar: The Baccarat chandelier in the Crystal Cellar steals the show, but once your eyes adjust to the low lighting there’s plenty more to see; stainless steel walls, a mirrored bar and a display of crystal decanters. The philosophy is kind of Forest Gump like in it’s approach—Beauty is what beauty does. Surround yourself with beautiful things and beauty becomes you. It seems to work. Who knew stainless steel could be so sexy? From the looks of it, Studio 54 is alive and well in Napa at Raymond. I half expected Dr. Frank-N-Furter from Rocky Horror Picture Show to pop out from behind a tank and purr in my ear “Give your self over to absolute pleasure!”  But instead Boisset arrived and the wattage of the room amped up considerably. Boisset is a bundle of energy, ideas and most of all showmanship. Take one part P.T. Barnum and one part marketing genius, (shaken, not stirred) and you have Jean-Charles Boisset.

In the warm glow of the candle lit Crystal Cellar winemaker Stephanie Putnam poured the current releases:

2009 Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

2006 Appellation Collection Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Appellation Collection St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Appellation Collection Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 

2006 Generations Cabernet Sauvignon

All of the Cabernets were exceptional examples of what Napa Valley is known for, but I liked the Rutherford best--Hearty, meaty, and balanced with sweet notes of blueberries. Very drinkable now and well into the future too.

Ring 2—Barrel to Barrel: Next it was time for the arts and crafts portion of the tour. We split into teams to decorate individual barrels that are part of Barrel to Barrel a new program for delivering a wine by the glass experience in restaurants and homes. The materials provided for the decorating were anything but traditional. Liberace would have approved. Hello! Leather, glitter, leopard prints, sequins, peacock feathers and marabou galore. I think a tasteful decoupage of wine labels might be a better approach. But hey…C'est la vie! 

While sipping the 2009 Barrel to Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon we set upon decorating the mini barrels. The end result included a sexy kitty, an ode to “Eyes Wide Shut” and an over the top Mardi Gras creation that took first place. If you want to try your hand at barrel decorating too, you will soon be able to visit the Raymond website to decorate one online and be eligible to win an actual barrel in real life. 

Ring 3—The JCB Lounge: As we entered the JCB lounge I had the feeling of Déjà vu. Where had I seen this place before? Was it in a scene from a movie? Boogie Nights perhaps? Gianni Versace’s home in Miami Beach? Possibly. Then it hit me…I’d seen it all before here in this commercial.

Opulence? JCB hez it! The JCB lounge had the same vibe going on-- Mirrors and gold statues? Check! Stack of gold bricks? Yup! A charming and charismatic leader with foreign accent and beautiful female staff? Check! Check! Check! Check! The mini giraffe was about only thing missing. Actually the JCB lounge is beyond opulent. It’s a sensory extravaganza of gold and marble and crystal and candles and glitz all grooving to a steady beat of Michael Jackson videos playing on the big screen. Honestly, you really must see it to believe it. 

This is where we tasted the JCB label wines, which are numbered and labeled with evocative terms. 

JCB No.81 Chardonnay—Alluring*Ephemeral*Insatiable

JCB No.7 Pinot Noir—Debonnaire*Charismatic*Seductive

JCB No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon—Voluptuous*Opulent*Incorrigible

The Pinot from Sonoma coast fruit tasted true to it’s terrior with a light scent of lavender and mint and rich flavors of clove, blackberries and a bit of bacon fat too.

I have to say, I first found Boisset’s eccentric approach to the “wine of the mind” disconcerting. It seems nothing is too far-out or off limits. But then half-way through the tasting I found the energy of it all to be wildly creative and inspiring. I came up with several ideas on the spot, that I’m sorry to say, his attentive staff my now be charged with bringing to fruition. Sorry! (By the way--I think it would be great to spend a day brainstorming with Boisset and his team if they are interested.)

So, you might be thinking why all the theatrics? Are they trying to distract my attention from the wine? No, I don’t think so. I think it’s merely an attempt to deepen the experience and increase the enjoyment of wines that are already very good. But you can decide that on your own. Note: If you go to Raymond Vineyards be warned; the experience can be overwhelming. One of our group stabbed themselves during the barrel decorating session drawing much blood, and another got so carried away by the Michael Jackson videos, she lit her hair on fire in tribute to him. Proceed at your own risk. But do by all means proceed. Let go, loosen up and have some fun.

Cleavage Creek Winery Goes Bust!

You can meet the most amazing people on twitter, and recently I began to follow and converse with Budge Brown the owner of Cleavage Creek Winery.

After Budge Brown's wife died of breast cancer he focused his grief and energy into fighting breast cancer and raising awareness for the disease in a very unique way: through wine. Budge created Cleavage Creek Cellars. Cleavage Creek donates a percentage of each bottle sold (before profit!) directly to breast cancer research. Plus each of the wines features the image of a breast cancer survivor on the label with a link to her personal story. How cool is that?

My mom had breast cancer. But her story had a bit of a twist. The twist being she didn’t tell us. Not a word. She went through six months of chemo followed by radiation and drove herself to her appointments without ever letting on to anyone what was going on.

My mother really believed in mind over matter. And mostly she believed that her matters were never you mind. Despite the fact we are indeed a very loving supportive family, she was as secretive as a double agent and twice as sneaky. I think at first she was subscribing to the “tree falls in the forest” approach. Meaning that if you don’t tell anyone maybe it’s not happening. So she did it her way.

When we finally did learn about it we were beyond shocked. “Why didn’t you tell us?” we asked. “Oh it was nothing.” was her reply. She was not afraid, just “annoyed and slightly inconvenienced” as she put it. She made it sound like it was no big deal; as if breast cancer was no more bothersome than getting the wrong order at a restaurant. She did not want us to worry, but more than that, she did not want us to interfere. She was so fiercely independent that she controlled all information as if it were gold in Fort Knox.

Some would call this behavior denial. Me, I just called it mom being mom. She was the type that if you asked her age would lean into you and say-“Can you keep a secret?” And you would nod “Oh Yes.” And then she would reply. “Well so can I” and never reveal a thing.

But one thing I know for sure is that she would have loved Budge Brown’s clever tribute to women and his support for the cause via Cleavage Creek Wines. She would have embraced his campaign and efforts fully because it’s fun and focuses on the positive, courageous and beautiful survivors.

Cleavage Creek recently sent me some of the wines to sample and not only is the cause worthy the wines are great as well. I tried some of the Tracy Hills 2007 Reserve Chardonnay paired with some samosas and pineapple chutney. The wine had nice spicy flavor, perfect for a toast to the memory of my mom’s fiery personality and legacy of independence. Here’s to you mom!

For more information on how you can purchase Cleavage Creek Wines and support breast cancer research follow this link. http://www.cleavagecreek.com/

UPDATE: Check out Budge with Gary V on Wine Library Episode # 861