Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Spin the Globe – Where I’ve Been and Where I’m Going


Oh wine world, you are such a temptress. So many places to see, wines to taste, people to meet and so little time to do it all. Not to mention trying to stay on top of bloging it all. I am in the midst of a three back-to-back trips. First stop was Mendocino for Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Fest for three fabulous days.


I was home for a day before I flew off to Quebec and the Eastern Townships for Printemps Rose Festival and now just a two days later, I am leaving in just a few hours for Portland where I will meet up with Mattie Bamman of @ravenoustravelr and we will embark on our roadtrip to WBC13  in Penticton, B.C.


We will drive through Seattle and up to Vancouver/Richmond area for two nights where we will be the guests of Tourism Richmond and then on to Oliver, where we will stay at Tinhorn Creek for one night where the Cab Franc is one of my all-time favorites, then we’ll head back up to Penticton and visit Upper Bench Winery and Creamery before we check in to Penticton Lakeside resort for WBC. Follow our hashtag #NWRoadtrip for all the hijinks.

Despite what Richard Jennings wrote here-- I am looking forward to exploring the Vancouver region and will form my own opinion. But my hat is off to him for writing true to his experience and not pulling any punches—although I did take him to task for it in the comments, because who can resist that kind of blog bait? Not me apparently.

At WBC I’ll be part of a panel Friday, June 7th with Michael Wangbickler from Through the Bunghole, Jeannette Montgomery from The Third Glass and Okanagan Writing--on Creating Compelling Content and what exactly it is. But it’s really open to interpretation, so join us if you can, and lend your opinion on the topic.

I hope to catch up soon with all the posts I want to share with you on the wonderful wine regions I have been so fortunate to visit-- including more posts on my darling Croatia and the #RakijaRoad, Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Italy, Quebec/Eastern Townships, and the Anderson Valley in Mendocino.

See you at WBC, or here on the blog soon.

Cheers—Marcy

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Adagio con Fabio-- Off the Grid in Puglia

 Auto Grill outside of Naples

It's the last day of May as I post this, but the memory of the deep freeze in Italy this past February is still present in my mind. After the International Wine Tourism Conference media trip ended in Naples, I met up with my friend Fabio who I wrote about previously here.  Despite the monumental amount of snow, we made it through the blizzard like conditions on the A16 to Puglia. There was an occasional burst of sun, but mostly I viewed the region through a scrim of grey.

We stayed on an organic farm outside of Brindisi with Fabio's cousins. Over the course of several days Fabio took me to Lecce and on a modified version of the food and wine tours his clients can experience. The short video below is just a little slice of what I experienced -- Adagio con Fabio.


The area around Brindisi, Lecce and San Donaci is flat and full of vines and olive groves. Olive tree forests really. Miles and miles of ancient twisted trees line almost every road. In between the olive orchards are acres of grapes, many of them growing on alberello vines that are like little trees and un-trellised.

The primary grape grown in Puglia is Negroamaro, a red grape that produces dark and earthy wines with rustic sensibilities.  Fabio set up tastings for me at Candido, Cantele, and Apollonio --I'll tell you more about that in the next post. 


One very personal aspect of my visit to Puglia was staying with members of Fabio's family on their organic farm outside of Brindisi. Is there any better way to experience a place than living with locals? Not really. But it helps to have a guide like Fabio bring you close to "native" status. We ate most of our evening meals with the family and each night I was amazed as more people appeared and squeezed in around the table for some hearty and delicious fare direct from the garden. 

It does not get any more "farm to table" than this. No photos of the meals, as I did not want to drive one more nail in the the coffin of crazy Americans and their rude eating habits.  Italians love their iPhones as much as we do, but you rarely see them on the table at dinner. An exception was made for the wine shots. When one of the youngest members of the family asked her father what I was doing, he replied-- "That's her job, to drink and take pictures." Her eyes grew wide at this news and her teenage siblings nodded in approval. Wine Blogger -- ersatz role model. Someone has to do it. 

All glasses were pressed into service for the farewell evening

Mystery wine, Primitivo, Apollonio Valle Cupa, Candido Aleatico, Grapppa

It's always been my experience when staying with Italian friends and relatives that the serious partying is reserved for your last night there. All the "artisanal" mystery beverages are brought out and things can get interesting quickly. I added to the offerings with a bottle of Apollonio Valle Cupa and the Candido Aleatico which we were all surprised to find was a deep ruby color, not the amber or orange color expected in a sweet wine.


This bottle marked Primitivo with a piece of masking tape showed great promise and I think it's likely to be quite good in a few years. Frankly, I liked it better than the 50/50 blend of Primitivo/Negoramo I bought at Apollonio. The home brew had some tannin chops, maybe too choppy, but give it some time.


Fear not the hand labeled bottles there's some good, albeit powerful, stuff inside. The homemade grappa packed a wallop and darn near took the enamel off my teeth, but after the third sip it mellowed considerably. As did I.


I have no idea what was in the re-purposed Alcool bottle, but we all drank it and survived. Needless to say I slept very well that evening.

If you are planning a trip to Puglia and want to have a personalized food and wine experience with much laughter-- contact Fabio via twitter @fabiopittella or visit his web site linked below.

DETAILS:
Adagio con Fabio 

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Wines of Italy Series: Goretti-Wine & Winetherapy


Fill'er up with Sagrantino! 
The first thing I noticed when we arrived at the Goretti Winery were the wine pumps! Hard to miss the gas station style pumps that locals use to fill up wine jugs and take home. With the price of gas so high, maybe we should all convert our cars to run on premium grape juice. Although with this wine you will need a locking gas cap  to prevent people from siphoning it out for the dinner table.


The wine shop had all the Goretti wines on display including some super-super sized bottles of Sagrantino almost half my height, I’d never seen bottles this big before. I doubt I could lift one much less get it in my suitcase!  But they certainly looked like a major party waiting to happen.

Also on display were a line of wine-based cosmetics that Sara Goretti developed with her sister. I took a closer look at the label and realized it was the same as the products provided in my bathroom at the Hotel Gio. I’d been amazed at the quality of the sample size hand creams and loved the aroma that was evocative of harvest on a crush pad, yet softer, almost a honeyed-sandalwood scent but lively and fresh.


After Sara explained each of their wine offerings, we repaired to the tower where the Goretti family was on hand, including Nonna Marcella, to pour some of the wines for us to pair with a wonderful array of Umbrian style hors d'oeuvres, cheeses, salads, and some limited production olive oil served on crostini. I particularly loved the Torta al testo ( shown below top middle) and the Crostini di carne alla Perugina (shown middle row left and bottom right corner below) both based on Nonna Marcella's recipes.


I was already familiar with several of the Goretti reds including Sagrantino di Montefalco and Rosso di Montefalco which are well distributed and easy to find in the states.  I was less familiar with the whites, and I favored the “Il Moggio” Grechetto a very aromatic and flavorful wine that paired best with the honey drizzled cheese.


New to me was the L'Arringatore a hearty red made from Sangiovese, Merlot and Ciliegiolo grapes and named after the famous bronze statue Aulo Metello. One sip of wine this and your arm may fly right up into a salute to the intense flavors and tannins. It happened to Melba. ( see below)


The vaulted ceiling of the room added to the atmosphere and although the temperature was rather cold, it hardly mattered by the time the grappa was served.


And what great grappas they were! Grappa di Sagrantino, Grappa di Grecetto and dark yellow Grappa made from the marc of red grapes.


Afterwards we went back to the wine shop and I bought a jar of the SG winetherapy moisturizer. All I can say is if I’d know how much I was going to like it I’ve have bought tank load. I’m not a super girly-girl but I do appreciate a great skin care product. It’s been over a month now since I’ve been using the winetherapy moisturizer and I do believe Sara Goretti has come very close to packaging the fountain of youth in her skincare products. Maybe that’s why all the women winemakers we met in Italy looked so gorgeous, they are applying the secrets of the vine to their skincare regime as well as in the bottle.


I know this sounds like some crazy infomercial, but it’s true and no one paid me a dime to say this! I’ve been a fan of the French Caudalie line of Vinotherapie products for years and firmly believe in the magic of polyphenols in their grape derived products. The Goretti winetherapy products are made with the same substances found in grape leaves and grape seeds.

If you can’t find the SG skincare line (hint look here) you can always drink Goretti wine instead and become beautiful from the inside out. Or try some Goretti Grappa and after a few shots I guarantee you will see a more youthful version of yourself in the mirror. That is if you can still see.

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Wines of Italy Series: Birthday on the Wine Trail



All I can say is if your birthday happens to fall within the dates of an International Wine Tourism Conference do absolutely everything in your power to get invited on the trip! Once again I had the supreme pleasure of celebrating my birthday on the IWINETC FAM trip. Last year in Portugal was a delight, but Italy proved to have charms and surprises all its own. 

Aquapetra Resort in Telese

I woke up on the morning of my birthday in a private villa-ette at the Aquapetra resort. I’d have liked nothing more than to spend the entire day relaxing in the park-like setting and partake of the many Spa offerings, but the weather had turned quite harsh and it was starting to snow.

On schedule that day were several wineries at higher elevations including TerreDora, Mastroberardino and Cantina Feudi di San Gregorio in the Irpinia region, but it became clear as we waited in the cozy lobby of Aquapetra that our plans would have to change. Our intrepid organizers led by Daniela Mastroberardino, president of Moviemiento Tourismo e Vino Campania, swapped some days around and arranged for us to visit Villa Matilde, located in lower elevation Cellole, instead. We were now in the grape land of Aglianico, Fino, Greco, Falanghina and Falerno-- many of them new to me. 


The wine and food parings presented by Villa Matilde were perfection. I liked how Export Manager, Giorgio Imparato guided us through the tasting twice--first without food and then with food to highlight how well they paired and how much the wine was enhanced by the paring and vice versa.

Clockwise from upper left: Pasta sfoglia,
Sausage and broccoli dumpling,
Angello meat pie, and Arancini  
 

Each pairing was freshly made in the on premise kitchen. These simple small bites were some of my favorite food of the trip. Pasta sfoglia, a delicate empanada-esque pastry filled with ham and cheese; a broccoli and sausage filled dumpling; a savory meat pie of agnello (lamb); and and then there was arancini! Oh yes, the fried rice ball arancini is a veritable cupcake of hearty flavor! My childhood comfort food, this arancini was made with peas just the way my Italian Nonna made it. I was in a food-induced state of bliss.

Tasting Notes

My notes--handwriting is not my forte

Villa Matilde vineyards have a rich volcanic soil spread across several micro climates that experience temperature extremes from warm, hot sea breezes to cold dry air from the mountains.  


100% Falanghina. Light floral scent with some hints of pineapple. Nice round mouth feel with fruity notes of pineapple and green apple. Very refreshing and a steal at 8-9 Euros.
Pairing: Pasta sfogia

100% Falanghina. Straw yellow color. Medium body and flavors of peaches bananas and vanilla. Rich mouth feel. Pairing: Sausage and broccoli dumpling

Aglianico 80%, Piedirosso 20%. Deep garnet color. Scent of rich dark fruits, blackberry and plums with a distinct hit of sea air! Full and smooth on the palate with balanced tannins. Paired great with the arancini. Scrawled on my note sheet--Me Likey!

Aglianico 80%, Piedirosso 20%. Deep dark purple color. Floral and toasty nose. Big flavors, almost like a liquid blackberry pie. Pairing: Agnello meat pie

100% Falanghina. Ohh la la! Golden honey amber color with an apricot and rasin honey nose. Flavor like pancakes with smoky raisin maple syrup. 


Left: Ms. Smarty Party-- Diane Letulle
Right: Giorgio Imparato

Later Giorgio quizzed us on what we learned that day in a Jeopardy style speed round of questions with some lovely wine books as prizes. Ms. Diane Letulle (@Diane_Letulle) proved to be a quick study and more important quick on the buzzer to answer most all the questions correctly. Good for you, Ms. Smarty Pants! I was not as quick or smart, but thankfully it was my birthday and the extremely generous Giorgio presented me with a copy of Le Donne in Vigna (Women in the Vineyard) as a special gift.


More delicious food was presented as part of an informal lunch and we were able to meet owner Francesco Avallone ( shown in right top corner below) and also the talented ladies behind all the cooking and take a quick group photo.

Ladies of the kitchen front and center

What a great birthday gift Villa Matilde turned out to be. I loved their wines and apparently so did many of the bloggers-- practically all of us purchased wine afterwards, particularly the Eleusi a Passito of 100% Falaghina. You have to remember we are not just wine blogging fools…we are consumers too, and you know a wine has made an impression when we all line up to buy more before we go. Especially wines that may be difficult to find stateside.

The hospitality at Villa Matilde was not a special arrangement just for the bloggers, wine tourists can visit Villa Matilde and experience the full wine pairing menu for around 35 Euros a person. I recommend you put them high on your list of places to visit in Campania. You won't want to miss it. 


When we left Villa Matilde the rain and snow began to increase and the roads became quite interesting to navigate. We slowly made our way to Benevento and the Hotel il Molino our lodging host for evening.

Birthday Dinner at Hotel il Molino

Top: Andrew Barrow, Birthday Girl and Gaetano Petrillo
Left Corner: Chef Angelo D'Amico with Birthday Girl

I have to admit I was a bit nervous as to what the evening might bring. The night before at AquaPetra it was David Lowe's (@bigpinots) birthday, and Ms. Melba Allen (@WineProfilers) gave a sensational performance delivering her rendition of Marilyn Monroe singing Happy Birthday, so I figured anything was possible. Perhaps the @wine_scribbler , Andrew Barrow would come waltzing out wrapped in nothing but a Terre Margaritelli apron and give a little show. Or maybe the ebullient Gaetano Petrillio  (@thewinebus) of The Wine Bus might juggle corkscrews and show off the twins. But it was a wonderfully elegant and understated fete. Chef Angelo D’Amico’s creations and the local wines that were served needed no performance enhancements.


Although it sounds odd, the squid sausage (second row left above) with the TerreDora Greco di Tufo was my favorite combination of the evening.

MENU—
* Polenta with Polpetta di Manzo (pictured above)
* Salsiccia di Calamaro (Squid Sausage!) on a Crostone with Pizzaiola Sauce (pictured above)
* Tortello of Caciocavallo Cheese with Carciofi (artichoke) Cream
* Guancia di Marchigiana a lenta cottura con Cipolle Caramellare e Patate (Slow Cooked Marchigiana Beef Caramelized Onions and Potatoes – No photo for this as I practically inhaled it as soon as the plate was set down.
* Biscotto Ghiacciato con Ricotta Mantecata agli Agrumi a Caramello (center photo above & below right)


WINES—
Kleos 2010, Maffini
Fiano di Avellino 2010, Terre Dora
Fiorduva 2009, Marisa Cuomo
Fiano di Baal 2010 Casa di Baal
Greco di Tufo 2007, Terre Dora
(Since it was my birthday, I took a break and did not write down any formal tasting notes) 


While we dined the snow continued to fall and speculation about what the next day would bring was the main topic of discussion. Perhaps a blogger snowman building competition would be held? We’d have to wait and see. 

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Wine Tourism Does Not Exist-- IWINETC 2012




"Wine tourism does not exist."

Well you can imagine the bewilderment hearing that caused for an auditorium full of tour operators, winery owners, media and tourism professionals at the 2012 International Wine Tourism Conference in Perugia, Italy. Many of the attendees were expecting to hear just the opposite. But that was the opening volley posited by Michael Wangbickler of Balzac Communications & Marketing. 

IWINETC 2012 Perugia, Italy
Michael went on to explain that aside from a small minority of wine tourists (and wine bloggers of course) visitors do not plan their vacation or travel days around visiting wineries. They are focused on where they will stay, where they will eat, what historic or cultural sights they will see. Visiting a winery is usually low on their priority list.


Wine tourism is essentially a very American concept pretty much created by Robert Mondavi. And except in a very few places like Napa, wine tourism does not exist. It’s just tourism.


Tourism is not a panacea for winemakers looking to sell more wine, nor is it an imperative for all wineries. But wineries that are seeking visitors and want to create more tourism must get on the radar (or on the map literally) in terms of choices that visitors make when planning a trip. That's why wine alliances and collaborations with tourism regions and local tour operators are key to promoting the industry as a whole. It’s important to make it easy for visitors to find you, know what your hours are, and what kind of experience they can expect when they visit.

During Michael's session and through out the conference, Twitter was a fire with the many views being debated on the subject. With a slate of speakers tilted rather heavily to the American view of tourism, there was bound to be some controversy. Some sessions got quite heated, arguing the point. A seemingly lopsided view of wine tourism was prevalent this year, and I think were I not an American, I too may have felt rather defensive if I repeatedly heard how to cater to the American wine tourist.

But I think many sessions proved there are several small but important steps that can be taken and still remain true to your culture and regional practices. It's a balance. 


I believe that Italian wineries looking to increase tourism need look no further then to their compatriots who are already doing an excellent job. Family wineries like the Lungarotti, Arnaldo-Caprai, Terre Margaritelli and Goretti (to name just a few in Umbria) are creating environments and programs for their visitors and working with the region to promote tourism. And the outstanding efforts of regional Wine Tourism Movement organizations such as Movimento Turismo del Vino Campania, Movimento Turismo del Vino Puglia and the Associazione Nazionale Le Donne del Vino (Women of Wine) are setting new standards in promoting and creating regional branding strategies for wine tourism throughout Italy.


Collaborating with those who have well-established programs and working to cross promote regional wine tourism with local organizations is the key. And in the less defined wine regions, it seems relationships with local guides and tour operators are even more important to facilitate the interaction between the wineries and visitors. 

I think there is much to be learned from Wine Tourism Italian Style, and it certainly exists! The winemakers and family winery owners I met were the most convivial group. Each demonstrated in their unique way how wine tourism can be grounded in family traditions and also incorporate modern marketing techniques and practices including using new media such as FaceBook and Twitter.


As the concept of wine tourism continues to grow, more people will seek to gather and discuss the merits and the issues surrounding it at conferences such as the International Wine Tourism Conference by Wine Pleasures and the Wine Tourism Conference organized by Zephyr Adventures. All sectors of tourism and wine tourism in particular can benefit from sharing ideas and learning from one another, and most important of all, a growing segment of tourists with an interest in wine will benefit from awareness campaigns that cultivate the desire to travel to regions that are also wine destinations.

HOTEL GIO


Hotel Gio, Perugia

The host Hotel for this years IWINETC was the Hotel Gio in Perugia. @hotelgio on Twitter. The Gio with décor and accents that highlight both Jazz and Wine is a good example of a how a hotel can promote the concept of wine tourism with their Camera Cantina (Wine Room) program. I stayed in wine theme room devoted to one local wine producer – Terre Margarettili --which turned out to be a delightful coincidence as I’ll explain later. 

IWINETC 2013

Croatia to host 2013 IWINETC
Next year from March 18-20th the IWINETC conference will be held in Croatia-- a place that’s become very near and dear to my heart and palate too! I have a special post about the wine of Croatia tasting held in Perugia coming up soon. 

Part 6- Wines of Italy: Terre Margaritelli - Torgiano

Friday, February 17, 2012

International Wine Tourism Conference 2012 --PREVIEW



I'm back! It was cold, wet and snowy!  But the weather did not dampen the enthusiasm or the flavor of the fabulous wines in Italy. I have so much to tell about my whirlwind tour of Italy's wine regions and the 2012 International Wine Tourism Conference held in Perugia in Umbria. I also took a side trip to Puglia after the conference and sampled some of the wines there too. But for now, here is a sneak peak-- just the tip of the ice(wine)berg of posts to come in the following weeks:

Kick-off Dinner in Orvieto

Pasta Making at Arnaldo - Caprai Winery

The International Wine Tourism Conference

Regal Dinner at Castelo dell' Oscano 

Grand Tasting of Italian Wines led by Jane Hunt

The Awesome Wines of Puglia

The Amazing Wines of Croatia

A Night Out at Terre Margaritelli

The Real Houeswives Wine Bloggers of Umbria

The Food and Wine of Campania at Terre del Principe

The Sublime Wine and Food Parings at Villa Matilde

Under the Volcano at Grotta del Sole
There's much much more to come about all the people, places, stellar birthday celebrations, and of course the wines....so stay tuned or better yet sign up for posts to be sent via email.

Ciao ciao--


Part 6 -Wines of Italy: Terre Margaritelli - Torgiano

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