Roadtrip Final Chapter: Oliver to Penticton, B.C. -- #NWRoadtrip

The road to Penticton and #WBC13 was paved with great times and fine wines. Take a look below at the entire journey from Portland to Penticton -- 7 days, 11 hours, and 42 minutes condensed into one crazy food, fun, and wine infused video!

While we were in Richmond we checked out some of the local wineries that were very close to downtown, including Lulu Island and Sanduz. I’ll be writing about it in separate post, so won’t give details here, but it was my first tasting of fruit wines and it was an eye opener. But even more of an eye opener was when Mattie entertained the tasting room at Sanduz with his soft stylings on the guitar. I almost fell off my chair! {Check out video slideshow above around the 0:56 second mark.}

Our last segment of the trip took us along scenic Highway 3 to Oliver. Along the way we had an epic picnic and even scared away a few startled travelers as we were a sight to behold. More wild than the wildlife.

Mattie AKA Pillsbury Dutch Boy

All that fresh air can make you very hungry. 

We ate our lunch with a magnificent mountain backdrop and then drove on to Oliver, where we stayed the night. 

Tinhorn Creek Winery

The first time I visited the Okanagan region I was very impressed with the Cab Franc I tried there. One of my favorites was from Tinhorn Creek Winery and I was excited to share my findings with Mattie and Miss Kristen. Well, the truth is, I have not been able to shut up about the Tinhorn Creek Cab Franc for over a year now, so it was time for me to step aside and let the wine do the talking. We began our visit with a glass of the Gewurztraminer that was chilled and waiting for us in the guest house.

Ahh... the pause that refreshes.

We would have been happy to sit right there contemplating the view for the rest of the evening, but dinner at Miradoro was waiting just a few steps away, along with Mattie and Kristen's first taste of the fabled Oldfield Cab Franc.

The views at Tinhorn Creek (see them in video at top of post) are best enjoyed from Miradoro where we dined with the Tinhorn Creek gang: Andrew, Lindsay, and Sandra.

The evening was a winning combination of interesting personalities, fine wine and big views. Or maybe it was fine personalities, interesting views, and big wines--it all works out any way you stack it. It’s great when you can hang out with people and find things to talk about that have nothing to do with their profession or business. We all seemed to have a common bond and affection for film, travel, and great food. Well, no surprise about shared interest in food, but Sandra, Lindsey, and Andrew are all interesting in ways well beyond the world of wine.

Upper Bench Winery and Creamery

Gavin and Shana Miller

The next day prior to the start of WBC13 in Penticton we stopped in at Upper Bench Winery and Creamy to meet with Gavin and Shana Miller and sample their cheese and wine. The Upper Bench wines have true finesse and naturally the house made cheese make for delicious pairings. Shana is the engine behind the on-site micro creamery and Gavin is the man of the vines. What a powerhouse team they make, and the products of their labor are exceptional examples of what one can create when passion meets know-how.

Upper Bench Cheeses (L to R) King Cole, Gold, U & Brie

I thought the King Cole, a semi soft blue cheese was the ideal with Merlot. I’d tried the Gold, a handmade semi-soft cheese, on a previous visit to the Okanagan Valley and it was as good as I remembered it. The U & Brie was also a delight, rich and creamy with a fresh tang, that was firm and not over ripe. I liked it with the Rose as well as the Riesling. Give yourself plenty of time to stop at Upper Bench when you are in Penticton.  It’s just the kind of place where you could settle in for a while, a long while.

End of an Era

It was a memorable road trip, but sadly, my crazy glasses were lost somewhere after our visit to Upper Bench. So off to the universe they go. It’s especially sad as I had the round ones for 18 years!! Those glasses have been all over the world with me. They were even featured on the cover of my book. But sometimes you just have to let go and move on. I’m looking for something new to use in future trips, but if you happen to see anyone in Penticton wearing some crazy glasses, you know where they came from!

Note: Overnight accommodations in Oliver were graciously provided by Tinhorn Creek. 

#WBC13 Penticton --The Best Wine Bloggers Conference Ever?

It was the best of times, it was the worst–…well no, it really was the best of times. The 2013 Wine Bloggers Conference in Penticton, B.C, far exceeded my expectations and I already had a good idea on what was coming, since I previewed the area last year with fellow writers Lesley Trites and Kathleen Rake.

(L to R) Me, Kathleen Rake and Lesley Trites

Here’s why I think WBC13 was the best WBC I’ve attended:

1. The Setting

It’s just hard to beat a location that is so stunning and to have the conference hotel right on the lake made it even better. Plus the organizers capitalized on the location by staging many of the events outdoors, such as the Thursday night reception at See Ya Later Ranch and the Saturday morning Breakfast in The Park across the street sponsored by the Downtown Penticton Association.

2. The Size
I know the organizers want to get as many people as possible to attend, but the relatively small turn out (compared to Portland) made it easy to talk to the producers and exhibitors and to connect with fellow attendees without a crush of humanity in every room. In my opinion the Portland conference was way too crowded and hectic. The decibel level in the Portland ballrooms and tasting sessions was just out of control. I find it difficult to taste wine with so much noise around me, not to mention trying to exchange a few words with the producers. It may have felt a little empty in Penticton, with lots of open seats at the tables –but I liked that and I was able to connect with many more people this year.

3. The Food
Hands down WBC13 had the BEST FOOD EVER for any conference I’ve attended. Even the tasting/table crackers were great, provided by a new company called GONE CRACKERS.

I had a bit of fun with their logo cards here.

4. Opening Reception

When you combine a stellar outdoor location--See Ya Later Ranch, with superb food by Joy Road Catering, and a convivial walk–around tasting atmosphere complete with music, classic cars and performance by the First Nation Indigenous Peoples (well, it was just one guy drumming) --You get the kind of event that is not only memorable, but hard to compete with going forward.

 

As I mentioned above, WBC13 Pentiction/Okanagan had the best food ever and it all started at the opening reception. People were talking about this dish --the poached salmon and beet dish with sorrel aoli and arugula-- {shown below} all weekend, it was truly sublime. 

Fresh radishes dipped in feta cheese with a crushed hazlenut and spice “dirt"

EVERYTHING at the event was delicious. And the tables were spaced out around the property so you did not have to fight your way to the front. Aside from the first tasting station where the busses left off, everything was very accessible.  

5. Breakfast in the Park
I loved that we got to actually experience the town of Penticton and not just the interior of the hotel. Getting us outside on Saturday morning was genius. Once again the food was incredible and provided by local chefs, bakers and restaurants.

There was an amazing Farmers Market that was also going on at the same time and we had time to wander about and enjoy it as well.

Check out the kids dancing below--

6. Friday Excursions
You actually got a heads up on the type of excursion each bus was heading to although not the exact location as some clamor for. I went on the Wine and Farms bus and it was terrific. {more on that later} The idea that we all meet at the end of the excursion for one big reception was great in concept – but in reality our bus was so late getting there that most everyone was leaving when we arrived and clean glasses were in short supply. I never got one.

But it was still fun and a bit bizarre when these folks wandered in—

I thought they were the winemakers from Dirty Laundry dressed up as a joke, but they turned out to just be a couple staying at the resort. NOTE: If you get the chance, ask Sandra Oldfield of Tin Horn Creek to give her impression of how stunned they looked when they walked in to the party. It’s priceless.

7. After-Party Scene
I’ll tell you right off-- if you are a fan of multiple after parties and non-stop drinking till dawn type of revelry, you may have been disappointed with the party scene in Penticton. It was rather low-key, but Goldilocks here thought it was jusssst right. The J Vineyards and Jordan Party was the best in my opinion, but I think it is every year. They always think of everything right down to providing phone chargers and docking stations scattered about the room. The party ebbed and flowed with people, but it was never so crazy that you could not actually talk to someone. {Although the hotel security did come knocking a few times.}

8. Key Note by Jim Conaway
His delivery could have used a bit of polish, {he is a writer not a public speaker after all} but what he had to say was right on and sparked much discussion throughout the weekend. I really appreciated his point of view and how he made himself accessible to the attendees. He attended the parties too and if you shared any secrets with him don’t be surprised if you find yourself in the next exposé he writes about the deep dark under belly of blogger conferences. (just kidding, Jim) I hope.

9. The Wine
I’ll talk about the specific B.C. wines more in a later post. But I really like that the speed tastings focused on just B.C. wines-- it made for a more focused showcase of the regional wines. Also on hand pouring were the Wines of Greece, Wines of Ontatiro, Wines of Uruguay. Loved the introduction to the wines of Uruguay and I got to taste many wines that were new to me.

10. The People
From all the organizers, the wine associations, tourism associations, and of course the wine makers, --Penticton proved that good old fashion hospitality is alive and well and ingrained in the people of the region.

So kids—I said it here last year in my post on Penticton…that if you miss out on #WBC13 in Penticton—you’re an idiot! And I think I was right.

I’m sure they will put on a great event, in Santa Barbara next year for WBC14, but, I can tell you now, with out a doubt, WBC13 set the bar high. Way high.

PS: In fairness there were a few things not so great this year:
1. The wine glasses in the hotel were not optimal for tasting.
2. Friday Excursions made for a very,very long day on top of a full day agenda.

Next up:  Posts on the Wine,  Excursions,  and the 5 most Hilarious Moments at #WBC13

Okanagan: What’s The Signature Grape?

This is a peach, not a giant grape

In July I traveled to British Columbia, Canada to the Okanagan region as part of a WBC 13 preview hosted by Travel Penticton and Wines of British Columbia. Naturally with four wine writers and our WSET rated host from Travel Penticton, the talk turned to what might be Okanagan’s signature grape.

Some say it’s the Pinot Gris that thrives and delivers the best expression of the region. Crisp and bright, the full flavors benefit from the long summer days and the same rich soils that support so many of the fruit orchards the area is best known for. 

But what about Gewürztraminer? This is a good contender, most all of my favorite whites were Gewürztraminer and I have to give extra points for the sublime manner in which it “pressed into use” at Kettle Valley Winery in the form of Slush Puppies. You have not tasted the joy enhancing aspects of Gewürztraminer until you try the delightful frozen concoction that is the Gewurztraminer Slush Puppy. Think slurppie of your youth, but with a decidedly adult twist.

Another great white was an Ehrenfelser-- dry and peachy and zingy from Lake Breeze Winery. And you can’t rule out Chardonnay--Blue Mountain Winery had one of the most extraordinary Chardonnays I’ve ever tasted--Full bodied with a creamy-peach nose, bright acidity and great balance.

Is it Merlot?
Up here no one will give you a “sideways” glance for ordering Merlot. In fact it is one of the most widely planted grapes and one of the most successful according to my palate. Besides anyone who would let a fictional character define their wine preference needs to get a firm grip on reality. Repeat after me: Miles is not REAL! Obey your own palate. My favorites were from Painted Rock Estate, Township 7  and Poplar Grove. These Merlot’s were deep, dark and elegant with hints of sage and smoke and dark cherries.

The 2006 Syrah I tried at Laughing Stock was the most Burgundian style I’d tasted and so you can’t rule out Rhone’s as a possibility.

Pinot could be in the running too. See Ya Later Ranch and Blue Mountain Vineyard both had excellent examples of what the Okanagan can deliver in terms of Pinot.

But I think my vote might be for the Cab Franc. Normally used as a blending grape, I found the 100% Cab Franc’s I tried in the Okanagan to be rich and earthy with firm tannins and a wide range of flavors, from mint and spice to violet and blackberry. I especially enjoyed the Cab Franc from Tinhorn Creek and Hillside Estates. In fact I brought home a bottle of each.

With so many wonderful grapes, it might be a mistake to try and pigeon-hole the Okanagan with just one designated grape. For now, the discovery process is in full swing and more wineries are experimenting with finding the outer limits of what the climate and soil can deliver for the best expression of the region.

If you are planning to attend WBC 13 in Penticton make plans to arrive early or stay late to discover the region at your own pace and cast your vote on the signature grape.

TRIP PLANNING DETAILS:
Tourism Penticton & Wine Country
1-800-663-5052
Email: visitors@penticton.ca

WINERY DETAILS:
Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars
Hillside Estate Winery
Kettle Valley Winery
Lake Breeze Winery
Laughing Stock Vineyards
Painted Rock Estate
Poplar Grove Winery
See Ya Later Ranch
Tinhorn Creek
Township 7 Vineyards

In case you still need convincing about WBC13:
Top Ten Reasons You Should Go to WBC13 in Okanagan

TOP TEN Reasons You Should Go to WBC13 in Okanagan

#10 The Fruit is Really Big

The fruit in Penticton is really big – and big fruit means good grapes. Peaches, Cherries, Apricots, Apples--it’s all growing in Okanagan.

#9 - The Food
Restaurants like Vanilla Pod at Poplar Grove Winery, Hillside Estates Winery Bistro, Lake Breeze Winery and the Hooded Merganzer are all run by innovative chefs that work in a supporting role with the bounty of the region, coaxing out the flavors of a dish with finesse and imagination not overpowering them.

#8--Sparkling and White Wines-- 
The Whites and Sparkling wines in the Okanagan are crisp, refreshing, and full of fruit and acidity. Standouts for me were the Blue Mountain Sparkling Brut non vintage made of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris --a tart dry delight. Also wonderful was the creamy Sauvignon Blanc, the bright Pinot Gris and-- I can’t really believe I’m saying this -- my favorite their amazing Chardonnay-- soft and supple with great acidity and balanced fruit. More about these wines in my next post. Other top picks the Gewurtztraminer from Kettle Valley, Pinot Gris from Lake Breeze, and the Viognier from Laughing Stock.

#7 – The Conference Hotel --Penticton Lakeside Resort—

I don’t think WBC has ever had a conference venue as dynamic as this. The Penticton Lakeside Resort  is situated right on Lake Okanagan--you can see vineyards from your balcony. And if you are not on the lakeside you can see wine bottles in your mini fridge. But no matter what side of the hotel you are on, the conference meeting rooms, and public areas all have incredible views as well. (Oh, and did I mention there is an on-site casino??) Oh yes, trouble is just a short elevator ride away. Other big plus—The wifi is blazing fast and so are the elevators. You won’t grow old waiting for the elevators here.

#6 – Winemakers

Everyone says Canadians are polite. Well sure that’s true, but they never mention how much fun they are, and how smart and hospitable they are. They are all that too. Plus who doesn't love to hang out with winemakers. Eh?

#5 – The Red Wines

Yes indeedy, there are some rich reds to quaff in the Okanagan. One of my favorite reds was the Cab Franc from Tinhorn Creek--exceptional body, smooth with spicy sage notes. The reds here are surprising and very good--from Cabernet to Syrah to Pinot Noir to Merlot--which is widely planted and I think could be a contender for signature grape of the area.

#4 – The Stunning Views –

Okanagan has some of the most interesting geological history of any wine region in the world and the views to go with it. Morning, noon and night, the scenery is the star and there are few wine regions more stunning. 

#3 – Gewurztraminer Slushies!!!

If there is only one reason to go to Okaganan-- this is it! You may just start looking for real estate after you have one of these amazing concoctions at Kettle Valley Winery.

#2 – The Wine!!

Did I mention wine? Oh yes—You can’t have a wine bloggers conference without good wine and it’s plentiful here. The jury is still out on what exactly the signature grape of the Okanagan region is. Is it Pinot Gris, Gewurtz, Cab Franc, perhaps Merlot? It’s hard to say, there are so many great grapes grown here--something for every palate. You need to try them all and then cast your own ballot for Signature Grape of Okanagan.

And the NUMBER ONE reason you should go to WBC13—

—If you miss the 2013 Wine Bloggers Conference in Penticton –You’re an idiot!

There is lot to see and do beyond the conference. Biking, hiking, kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, and something simply called “the float” in the river channel between Okanagan Lake and Skaha Lake that does not involve root beer, but could if you wanted it to.

My recommendation for WBC13 in Okanagan-- Come early, stay late. You’ll be glad you did.

I’ll go in to everything I experienced on my WBC13 preveiw trip that was arranged by Travel Penticton and BC Wine in the next two posts. So don’t touch that dial.

INFORMATION ON PENTICTON:

Penticton & Wine Country Visitor Centre
Toll free: 1-800-663-5052
Email: visitors@penticton.ca

Photo Credits: All photos Marcy Gordon except for Pentiction Peach and Mountain biker -- courtesy of Penticton & Wine Country Tourism